Crack Climbing (Reopened, but unmoderated, post at own risk)

I've come to realize that you can't use just one method in crack climbing. some long moderates might be fairly easy in which I just take my time and enjoy it. Other harder routes require strength, endurance, and patience. You have to read the rock while your climbing and adapt to the terrain.

Every now and then I can talk my girlfriend (just getting into the sport) into trying a new crack climb. she gets slightly jealous though if I stay with the lead for to long. So reluctantly we'll swap and ill let her get a taste of the type of climbing I have been practicing for years

Sometimes in my beginner years I would simu-climb crack with my male friends. Helmets are a must on these climbs and it doesn't hurt to have a couple drinks before starting to ward off any fears either climber might be feeling. You have to find a good stance on the face to swap leads otherwise you'll run the risk of getting too close to your partner. Although these cracks are generally dirty but well traveled we both usually have a great time.

Of all the crack climbing I've done the best was a tall thin line in Russia. it was probably the most aesthetic line I'd ever seen. Smooth off fingers to a nice rest on humongous jugs 3/4 the way up then beautiful face climbing to the top. I don't usually climb on private property but it was almost begging to get a free ascent. I sneaked into the crag and solod it in approximately 2.5-3 hours. While I wanted to bivy at the top I knew the land owner might be returning so I packed up my gear and headed home full of the joy climbing had given me in the past.

TP in SLC wrote: Who needs jugs when you got a wide crack? (my favorite T-shirt)

ughh wide cracks and sagging juggs no thanks...

I like my climbing to be very well balanced.....cant just climb on a crack with no jugs...and whats a good set of jugs with a messed up face???

you mean the consumption of a few brews could turn a 5.5 into a .10c??? my god thats BRILLANT

Growing up climbing at the Gunks I never understood all the excitement about crack climbing. All the crack there are horizontal....Just not that interesting. Then in about 1978 I made my first trip to Indian Creek. I just stared in amazement at every beautiful vertical crack I saw. In the evening my cousin and some of her friends arrived to join us in some crack fun. That night I camped Next to the first crack I was ever going to climb and what a climb it was. Went from fingers to tight hands a very enjoyable first crack. I climbed that crack numerous times over the next several days...Wish I could remember the name of that climb.

Well over the next 30+ years I have climbed many other cracks. I have tried to spend as much time as possible crack climbing. Some have been better then others but as I remember they were all enjoyable. I can remember the name and location of most of those cracks. Some are just a vague recollection almost like the were climbed in my dreams.

seth0687 wrote:you mean the consumption of a few brews could turn a 5.5 into a .10c??? my god thats BRILLANT

Careful, guys...stay the course, now...

I, too, like having sex with women.

I love how the thread title now reads (Thread closed). Ha ha ha.

Good luck.

Years ago, I climbed this one crack that was simply amazing. P1 was this incredible hand jam on an overhung wall. It was so intense climbing inverted that sometimes I felt I was hanging on for dear life. At the end of the pitch I pulled the roof on two beautiful jugs, set some clean pro and prepared to move on to some more moderate slab climbing. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to find a second thinner seam paralleling the main crack on this 2nd pitch. I pushed full ahead with one hand in each crack. I had to slow way down, however, because thin crack was extremely sharp. I was greatful to be able to rest in the larger crack occasionally and wipe the blood off my hands. This was definitely the most technical part of the climb. The thin crack eventually petered out at the end of this pitch which was fine by me. P3 ran straight vertical up the wall and I enjoyed pounding out the last moves in the more comfortable larger crack.

John Langston wrote: Kateri, this is a "highly moderated" discussion.

not anymore -- check the title..!!

Sometimes when I can't find a crack to climb, I take my gear out, lube it up and yank on the trigger rigorously until it cams with the intensity of an erupting volcano. Make sure you don't use too much lube or you won't be able to feel the trigger action.

I personally like to stay away from all routes (cracks included) that have been previous nesting sites. Once you engage in sending that route you could have to clean up what some someone else bailed on;)

yep lube can be your best friend sometimes, with out it your booty might not function properly. not to mention cams getting all grungy from a sandy/dirty crack, keep it clean and well lubed.

play it safe keep your protection operating properly.

Big Bros; back it up?

I recently came across a video while surfing the net, let's see, nope, it wasn't on you tube, but anyway it showed the one-handed repositioning of two big bros in the crack simultanusly as she, or he(couldn't tell; poor resolution) layback. Has anyone else seen or done it?

I've been injured and haven't been in many cracks this year. the few I've been in are off hands, and I've been coming out of them. I guess I need to rehone my technique.

Gigette Miller wrote:Big Bros; back it up? I recently came across a video while surfing the net, let's see, nope, it wasn't on you tube, but anyway it showed the one-handed repositioning of two big bros in the crack simultanusly as she, or he(couldn't tell; poor resolutuon) layback. Has anyone else seen or done it?

I walked a #5 big bro (just one) up an OW recently and thought it was pretty tough to do- the strength of the spring made it hard to get back in, as it kept trying to go all the way open and the crack was not very parallel in spots, so it would drag funny and go none-in or nose-out.

Tony,

Sorry, but can, or can't you elongate your #5 big bro in the crack using the one handed technique? If so, was it like, really hard? Big bros scare me; just the thought of it wiggling around, and getting stuck in the crack in an awkward position makes my eye twitch. I imagine proper breathing techniques before insertion would make it less painful of an experience overall.

Gigette Miller wrote:Tony, Sorry, but can, or can't you elongate your #5 big bro in the crack using the one handed technique? If so, was it like, really hard? Big bros scare me; just the thought of it wiggling around, and getting stuck in the crack in an awkward position makes my eye twitch. I imagine proper breathing techniques before insertion would make it less painful of an experience overall.

I suppose the first time is always the most difficult...

It's easy to put it in there before it is sprung, but once it is sprung, and you are in the lay back position, what started out a #5 big-bro is more like a 10" peice- the thing about doubles in size!
So if you have a perfect placement you can move it up and down, in and out, wiggle it, etc... no problem. But if you are in a more awkward position, it might pop out on you and hit you or your partner.

My girlfriends that were high on crack told me that when they have had big bros in the larger sizes they noticed a problem with their action when fully sprung; it wasn't as solid as they expected it to be, and would flop around. They prefer the smaller sizes; when extended they seem to fit perfectly, feel rock solid, and are much easier to handle, and to remove.

Should I write a review on big bros for MP?
Girls? Anything you want to add?

I think the gear has to be just the right size for the job.....to big and its a joke but to small and it wont even touch the sidewalls of the crack!!!!

I mean something in between a micro stopper and a #5 big bro fully extended???