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Multipitch Sport in CCC or BC?

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,835

The database tool doesn't seem to be able to tell me whether a route is long or short, so I'll just ask people who know.

I'm hoping to climb some multipitch sport routes, between 11c-12b, ideally they would be sustained.

Solid Gold in CCC is the only one in the canyon I know of. I'd like to find something like that but hopefully longer.

Does this exist in these parts?

Casey Bernal · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 215
Behind The Sun

Garrett's Revenge

can be done with the start of Ride the Snake for a QD only sport climb.

I think that Solid Gold is the longest sport climb in CCC. Dream Canyon has some long sport climbs. For anything longer you have to go to the splatte.

Casey Bernal · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 215

Is there such a thing as "obsolete" trad?

Check out Sheeprock for some long sport climbs. Most of them aren't at the 11 to 12 range but there are a couple. They are on slabs but there are face climbing features. Certainly not the quick urban sport burn ...

James Beissel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 905

Try these:

Global Gorilla, Animal World
Earth Voyage, Lost Angel

Haven't done them personally, but I've heard they are good. Maybe not as long as you are looking for, but still sustained.
There is other stuff in Dream that would fit the bill as well.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

John, Possibly also the River Wall (just don't fall).

With Solid Gold, Creekside also has other stuff. Solid Gold is the current to date as well as Spun Gold & Brennivin; there's a ton of potential on that rock.

Get Mabe's book, it's good.

Mark Tarrant · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 785

You should check out Empire (Ra and The Halidome) for lots of multi-pitch sport routes in the .11-.12 range. The season is starting up now on warm days, (best temps from late May through mid October).

TBD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 515

Too, on little eiger

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,330

If only it was that easy John.... Too is the most sustained multi-pitch in CCC, and it is not that sustained. Just run laps on the Anarchy or Primo Walls for a good pump.

Or just go out and jump on Childhood's End, you don't need no stinking trainer climb ya puss.

winston · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 55

Strange Cargo (5.11) in Upper Dream Canyon on Lost Angel wall is cool, also if the raptor nesting is over (I'm not sure when it is) the Young and the Rackless (5.9ish) is also fun.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,330

I'd go for the barefoot send....it would be sweet. You could fix the whole thing and leave ropes up for the season, then run out there, meditate on the ravens, and do a lap. Just make sure you video tape yourself as you will probably not attract any attention otherwise.

Seem to be all healed up, and would love to throw some sand your way. How was Moonlight?

david goldstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,541

Not One of Us in CCC (way better than Too!) and Earth Voyage in Dream Canyon would get my vote as the two best I've done, but for concentration of good multi pitch sport routes, Ra is a great destination on a hot day.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

We got a good look at Ra in Empire a while back. It's really impressive.

mountainproject.com/v/color…

4 pitches.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Yeah Langston - Empire!!

Jenny's has some great pie also

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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