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Routes in The Mission Wall

Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocketman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wild Child S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Mabe and C. Bernal
Page Views: 3,464 total · 18/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jan 24, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


EDIT (8/05):

P1 and P2 of Ride the Snake. (Link these pitches) 5.8-5.9.

P2. make a short downward traverse (4th class, 2 bolts) left to a set of anchors on the slab. Garrett's Revenge starts from here. (You can actually link with first pitch)

P3. chase several bolts up steep 5.9-5.10 to a roof. Pulling over the roof is the crux (11d/12a). Continue on sustained face past another half-dozen clips to anchors on a ramp. This makes for about a 150' pitch total (likely the longest in CCC). Your belayer can see you the for the whole pitch!

P4. follow another 4 bolts through the green arete/roofs to the left (5.10).


About 16 quickdraws, 2-bolt belays.
Not recommended to rap... traverse Surette and rap the Rocketman.


Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
Well guys, I think we messed up. After climbing this route recently, Darren and I laughed that we rated this route 11a. Oops. We spent over a month developing this section of wall and working out the lines so we had every move wired. The route is much harder than 11a, more like 11++ or so. We did not mean to sandbag anyone, it just felt much easier at the time. I apologize to anyone who was whipped by the mis-rating.

However, this pitch is STELLAR: improbable roof, continuous and devious face, direct and distinct line, and unbelievable position. The roof is the definite crux and may be easier for tall people and those who know the sequence, it is also safe even if you blow the clip.

For doing the whole route from the ground to top, you only need 12 Qds and Aliens green to red. Oct 19, 2003
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
It is possible to lower from the anchors atop the GR crux pitch back into the Ashtray belay. You must use a QD to tram down the rope back into the Ashtray because of the large roof, and because of this roof it is not possible to rap back into the Ashtray. This avoids the bush exit and the scramble to the other anchors and there are fewer raps. There will be a lot of drag for the toprope but it improves once the follower pulls past the crux. Then do one Double-rope rap to the ground and watch for loose rocks. This way is simpler and much faster. Dec 8, 2003
This climb is in a beautiful spot and has a classy feel, all too rare in this oftentimes grid-bolted-fluffy-graded canyon. The approach pitches are fun and interesting. Gotta say it seemed crazy-hard for 11a, specially given its location in CCC. Pulling over the roof is inobvious and pretty stiff, with an interesting clip. Very cool. Also like how the routes on this wall actually seem to have vaguely realistic grades.

Thanks for putting this one up, nice work! May 12, 2005
Classic route! Good job Darren.. Aug 20, 2005
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
Great movement throughout the crux pitch, which has a hard to read crux followed by an excellent finish. Hard to rate being on it only once, and it may be easier than 12a if you know the sequence at the crux, but I am sticking to 12a until the next time - there will be a next time. The last pitch still has some loose holds. Mar 28, 2015

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