Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Mission Wall

Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocketman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wild Child S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Mabe and C. Bernal
Page Views: 3,742 total · 20/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jan 24, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

EDIT (8/05):

P1 and P2 of Ride the Snake. Link these pitches, 5.8-5.9.

P2. Make a short downward traverse (4th Class, 2 bolts) left to a set of anchors on the slab. Garrett's Revenge starts from here. (You can actually link with the first pitch.)

P3. Chase several bolts up steep 5.9-5.10 to a roof. Pulling over the roof is the crux (11d/12a). Continue on sustained face past another half-dozen clips to anchors on a ramp. This makes for about a 150' pitch total (likely the longest in CCC) and even longer if you link with last pitch. Your belayer can see you the for the whole pitch!

P4. Follow another 4 bolts through the green arete/roofs to the left (5.10).

Protection

About 16 quickdraws, 2-bolt belays.

It is not recommended to rap... traverse Surette, and rap the Rocketman.

Photos

Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.11d
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.11d
Well guys, I think we messed up. After climbing this route recently, Darren and I laughed that we rated this route 11a. Oops. We spent over a month developing this section of wall and working out the lines so we had every move wired. The route is much harder than 11a, more like 11++ or so. We did not mean to sandbag anyone, it just felt much easier at the time. I apologize to anyone who was whipped by the mis-rating.

However, this pitch is STELLAR: improbable roof, continuous and devious face, direct and distinct line, and unbelievable position. The roof is the definite crux and may be easier for tall people and those who know the sequence, it is also safe even if you blow the clip.

For doing the whole route from the ground to top, you only need 12 Qds and Aliens green to red. Oct 19, 2003
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.11d
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.11d
It is possible to lower from the anchors atop the GR crux pitch back into the Ashtray belay. You must use a QD to tram down the rope back into the Ashtray because of the large roof, and because of this roof it is not possible to rap back into the Ashtray. This avoids the bush exit and the scramble to the other anchors and there are fewer raps. There will be a lot of drag for the toprope but it improves once the follower pulls past the crux. Then do one Double-rope rap to the ground and watch for loose rocks. This way is simpler and much faster. Dec 8, 2003
This climb is in a beautiful spot and has a classy feel, all too rare in this oftentimes grid-bolted-fluffy-graded canyon. The approach pitches are fun and interesting. Gotta say it seemed crazy-hard for 11a, specially given its location in CCC. Pulling over the roof is inobvious and pretty stiff, with an interesting clip. Very cool. Also like how the routes on this wall actually seem to have vaguely realistic grades.

Thanks for putting this one up, nice work! May 12, 2005
Classic route! Good job Darren.. Aug 20, 2005
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Great movement throughout the crux pitch, which has a hard to read crux followed by an excellent finish. Hard to rate being on it only once, and it may be easier than 12a if you know the sequence at the crux, but I am sticking to 12a until the next time - there will be a next time. The last pitch still has some loose holds. Mar 28, 2015
David Champion
Centennial, CO
David Champion   Centennial, CO
An 80m rope gets you to the base of Garrett’s Revenge from the anchor atop its first pitch. This fact makes it possible to rap in to Garrett’s from Surette Ledge with an 80m rope. First, equip Garrett’s P2 (top) anchor with quickdraws. You must do this because the P2 anchor is not equipped with rappel hangers. Garrett’s P2 top anchor is on the far (climber’s) left edge of Surette Ledge and on a shelf of rock just below the ledge proper. Do a short rappel (~40’) from here to Garrett’s P1 anchor. Pull the rope, and thread Garrett’s P1 anchor (which is equipped with rappel hangers, so no need to leave draws at this one). Rappel to the base of Garrett’s. Knot your ends, and make sure you’re at the middle mark, as you’ll only have a few feet to spare.

Only downside is you are committed to climbing back to Surette Ledge to retrieve the QDs you left at the P2 anchor. If this prospect is too daunting, toprope P1 of Garrett’s from the line you just rappelled. You’ll only be required to lead its short 2nd pitch, at 5.10, to recover your draws. If you are considering the toprope option, leave draws at the P1 anchor as well so as not to wear the hangers. Having left two (or more) draws at anchors, make sure you have enough left to lead P1. Didn’t count the bolts, but there are a lot (maybe 16). Of course, you can hang the draws on rappel if you’re into that sort of thing. Aug 12, 2018
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
I am so confused by that comment, David. Aug 13, 2018 · Temporary Report
David Champion
Centennial, CO
David Champion   Centennial, CO
Short version: you can rap into Garrett’s Revenge from Surette Ledge with an 80m rope. See comments above for details.

Sorry, side effect of not wanting to kill anyone with bad/incomplete/unclear beta. Aug 13, 2018
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
David, I think I got thrown off by "rapping to GR from P1 anchor". Aug 13, 2018 · Temporary Report

More About Garrett's Revenge

Printer-Friendly