Crack Crag Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 4,134 ft | 1,260 m |
GPS: |
34.06038, -116.21952 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 271 total · 20/month | |
Shared By: | Gunkswest on Dec 7, 2023 | |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This small, crag has some good, moderate crack climbs and a couple decent face climbs. The escarpment has two aspects - a mostly sunny wall that faces the road and a shadier side that faces away from the road. The approach from Quail Springs Road takes roughly 15-20 minutes, half of which is uphill hiking.
Bring trad gear and cordalettes or an anchor rope if you wish to set the climbs up as top ropes.
Getting There
Park in the paved pullout that is to the southeast of the main Negropolis hillside. This paved pullout is roughly halfway between the Negropolis and Vagmarken Buttress of the northeast side of Quail Springs Road/Park Boulevard.
From the paved pullout, walk northeast (right of center as viewed from the road) around the first small rockpile. Bear left into a small valley behind the first rockpile. From this point, you are looking at the spine of the formation. The left (roadside) aspect is generally sunny, the right (facing away from the road) is generally shady.
Sunny (SW facing) side: Below much of this face is a substantial talus slope. Depending on which routes you wish to do, you can either scramble directly up through the boulders or approach as for the shady side and pass through a notch onto the sunny side. Except for the rightmost routes on this aspect, the approach will likely take a bit longer than the shady side due to the boulder scrambling required.
Shady (NE facing) side: From the viewpoint just beyond the first rockpiles, go up a slope that has a small cliffband on the left (road) side. As you go roughly 200 yards up the slope, the small, generally shady cliffband on the left will become more defined. Just before the height of land, the cliff will be on your left and the various crack lines will be obvious. From the height of land a bit beyond the crag, you have a good view of the right portion of the Anger Management Cliffs and Snooze Rock.
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