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Castle Tor - HHH Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Castle Tor - HHH

L › R R › L A › Z

	Invincible Summer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wichita Clutch Multipitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	1,941 ft	592 m
GPS:	34.74982, -98.54202 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	247 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Miles Johnson on May 3, 2023
Admins:	Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

Castle Tor encapsulates the trad climbing and bouldering on the NE flank of Hunting Horse Hill. The rock here is great and like most of HHH the granite is unusually featured with geometric breaklines and many hand cracks.

Castle Tor climbed from the grass to the top feels like 3-4 different levels usually with shaded and comfortable belay areas, being 40-60' tall each depending on the lines you choose to link up. No hanging belays here but these trad climbs allow partners to get crack mileage, smooth out transitions, and climb in early morning from Mount Scott's shadow and then afternoon shade due to the east facing ridgeline of HHH.

Getting There

The approach from the main refuge highway is applicable especially if you take the spine of the ridgeline for speed, but on the first approach and to be able to start at the base of the climbs parking at Juji Fruit / Pullout Game parking and heading down though the open pockets and elk-trails is a shorter option that will keep the crack climbs in sight. There are many options here and due to being very seldom visited dead-fall limbs and other brush will variate the trails until enough climbers define one with traffic. The elk trails are currently pretty well traveled spring 2023. Some may prefer taking the scree slope.

My preferred method is to park at Juji and go down into the Pullout Game bouldering area, head north towards Pig Platter boulder and then downhill to Rattlesnake Jake while heading west. When you get to the end of this opening head SW to your left and follow elk trails trying to maintain a west and then SW bias. Eventually you will come into a nice canopied glen and creek and start heading back uphill. This part should be obvious. Too far south and you will hit the scree runway which isn't bad. Too far north and you will get into a downhill creek heading closer to the Dead Air approach.