North Face Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,028 ft | 1,228 m |
| GPS: |
34.03977, -116.19444 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 290 total · 7/month | |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Jan 21, 2023 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The routes on the north face of AFPA Rock are less popular that the sunny, south face. That said, the routes on the north aspect are of equal quality and the shade is useful in warmer weather.
There are two sections on the north face of the rockpile with routes - a sector at the NW end near the picnic area and the better area, at the NE end (where Hurricane Hugo, et al are located). Using the approach described below, you will walk below all of the climbs.
Getting There
From the front (closest to the road) Quail Springs Picnic Area paved parking, carefully cross the main road and follow a trail NE about 50 yards to the left edge of the south face of AFPA Rock. Go slightly left and follow another obvious social trail along the base of the north side of the formation. As soon as you turn the corner, you will see a short section of rock at mid-height of the formation (about 40 vertical feet above the desert floor) with a couple obvious cracks. There are a handful of routes here. Continue E along the base of the formation for about 200 yards. Near the northeast corner of the rockpile are some huge boulders; directly above is a cliff that is home to Hurricane Hugo, Sheltered, etc.
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