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Monte Nero Ice Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Monte Nero

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Couloir Del'H WI3 M3+ Steep Snow R

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Elevation:	10,567 ft	3,221 m
GPS:	46.21589, 10.6756 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	297 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Jake Fojtik on Nov 21, 2022
Admins:	Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

At the eastern edge of the Adamello - Presanella, north face of Monte Nero holds some of the best alpine lines in Italy.

Couloir Del'H (450m, AI3 M3/3+) is the classic alpine route of the area, and a good introduction to the more serious lines like Clean Climb (480m AI4, M4+), Winds of Change (450m M6), and the crown jewel in the center of the face: Rolling Stones (550m, AI4+/5, M6)

Further beta for these routes and others can be found in the guidebook Presanella Rock & Ice by Francesco Salvaterra, and at gulliver.it & planetmountain.com

Getting There

Driving: From Brescia, follow the A8 north towards Pinzolo (following signs for Madonna di Campiglio). After a few hairpin turns north of Pinzolo, and after passing Ristorante Speck, take a left turn for Strada per la Val d'Amola. Follow this road, passing Rif Nambrone, until you reach the summer parking lot for Rif Segantini / Malga Vallina d'Amola. Depending on the snow / maintenance, the road may be blocked by a gate at Rif Nambrone. If there is a gate, but with no lock, it is accepted practice to continue along the road to the summer parking lot, or until you hit snowline. If the gate is locked, you're SoL and have to walk the 3 hours from Rif Nambrone.

Walking: Regardless of where you park, follow the 211 to Rif Segantini.
- If you drove up the road, look for the 211 just before a bridge on the right side of the road, next to a stream. About 1 hour to Rif Segantini
- From Rif Nambrone, either follow the 211 or the road to Rif Segantini. About 3 hours of walking.

From Rifugio Segantini, follow the 211 for about 20 minutes. Eventually, leave the trail, cut right, and lose some elevation to reach the basin of Val d'Amola. There may be cairns marking where to turn, but it's a glacier moraine, and you're probably going to be approaching in the dark so don't count on it. Once in the basin, continue up the valle for about 1-1.5 hours to reach the base of Monte Nero.