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Elevation: 511 ft 156 m
GPS: 44.08851, -71.16375
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,144 total · 133/month
Shared By: Jon Nicolodi on Dec 30, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Ah, the pig pen. What more could you want? Well...don't answer that. But it does fulfill a need for roadside drytooling. Call it what it is - only one route (at the moment) tops out, for which it is nice to have frozen turf, and then you might be mixed climbing. Regardless, hopefully it's fun and is a good training ground for those objectives which our society deems more noble.

The pig pen has a great angle to it and some roofs, which allow for steep routes and for staying dry in the rain and snow. Most of the rock is quite chossy. Sure, the routes will clean up with time, but you've been warned, and if you're climbing here and it's decidedly not winter, it might all be a bit more loose than if it were. Effort was taken to remove the larger stuff, but it's still a possibility and might always be. Stick clip highly recommended.

Speaking of rock, there are rock routes at the pig pen, and thou shalt not drytool them. This is one of the few cliffs in the area that faces north and offers some shady relief on the hot summer days, and a few passes with tools will definitely break off important holds from these routes. Please keep the tools on the established mixed lines lest you anger the wrong person and get these drytooling lines chopped on behalf of all of us. The rock routes are listed in the Handren North Conway Climbs guidebook. Another good rule of thumb is that if they aren't listed as a route in this sub-section, it's a rock route. In case you don't have a Handren guide, and to be more specific, the rock routes are:

-Every bolted line to the left of Cuckolds Corner. Additionally, the finger crack that goes to a bombay chimney is listed as a TR in the rock guidebook, but I'm sure has been led.

-The bolted line (in desperate need of a hardware upgrade) between Sam's Corner and Relish and Catch Up

-The bolted line (has a mixture of old and new bolts) between What We Do in the Shadows and The Acceptable Cave

Getting There Suggest change

Park on the west side of West Side Road in the next pullout north from Humphrey's parking. There is a guardrail that picks up at the northern end of the pullout. From the pullout, walk down into the drainage, walk 10 paces north, then straight uphill. You can see the cliff from the road, or at the very least you can see a mack truck sized boulder, from which you'll be right beneath the cliff. If you're approaching for more than 5 minutes, something's off.

I have heard that you can get towed from this pullout if it's snowing, but have tested this and haven't personally be towed.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pig Pen

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
M6+
 10
Shuffle the Deck
Sport, Mixed
M7+
 6
Relish and Catch Up
Sport, Mixed
M5+
 17
Cuckold's Corner
Sport, Mixed
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shuffle the Deck
 10
M6+ Sport, Mixed
Relish and Catch Up
 6
M7+ Sport, Mixed
Cuckold's Corner
 17
M5+ Sport, Mixed
More Classic Climbs in The Pig Pen »

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