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Wizard's Hat Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Wizard's Hat

L › R R › L A › Z

	J&J Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	West Ramp of Wizard's Hat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Elevation:	12,508 ft
GPS:	37.21666, -118.71093 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,986 total · 45/month
Shared By:	Jeff Coon on Sep 3, 2020
Admins:	Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Triangular granite pinnacle connected to Glacier Divide via ridgeline which projects northward from Divide, above Goethe Lake. Beautiful views of Muriel, Divide peaks, and their remnant glaciers. Easy access via Paiute Pass.

East face offers variety of interesting potential lines; however, note friable rock and large volume of loose rock make sound alpine navigation, route housekeeping, treading carefully and sound rope mgmt skills necessary to mitigate objective rockfall hazard. West face largely 5.fun ramps, with small headwalls just below sub-summit offering some more interesting moves. Note original climbing party cleaned off substantial amount of obviously dangerous loose rock on their routes on both faces. However, many sizable loose blocks remain -- please be very careful.

Established rappel anchor on *sub-summit* not main summit; faces West ramps, allowing rapid descent with two 60m ropes.

Recommend J&J Route, rappel then climb West Ramp -- great combination.

Getting There

Approach via Paiute Pass. From pass, take trail to Muriel Lake. Proceed around Muriel to outflow (NW), cross this, then follow fishermen's trail South initially continuing around Muriel then up to Middle & Goethe Lakes. From Middle Lake, look directly South and spot Wizard's Hat's main and northern sub-peak approximately a mile distant on ridgeline just West / right, above you ~300'. From the Middle Lake meadow make way toward ridge and find great campsite with nice stone wall work 20-30' above meadow, just below grassy & sandy outflow benches from ridgeline above. You guessed it: begin making your way up these sandy benches, generally angling up & right nearly directly toward Wizard's Hat. From our base camp just above Muriel Lake outflow our approach took 1 hour 10 minutes.

Alternate approach: from Muriel Lake outflow scramble closer high point ~300' above, then boulder hop across delightful ridgeline to Wizard's Hat. Fun.

Alternate alternate approach: don't be a pansy and come in via Paiute -- be a Sierra Hard (Wo)Man and approach via Pine Creek Pass, go up to Royce Lakes / HOMG and skip climbing Feather due to weather & incredible winds. Go into Elba / Moon / L Lakes, then upward around Puppet & Star Lakes bench, cross Col above Star Lake, descend to Desolation Lake, then Lower Desolation, then finally across to Muriel. Good stuff.

Camping: many sites at Muriel Lake, but note it's busy there given close proximity to Paiute Pass. Middle Lake has one beautiful established site on our suggested approach, or you can be a bum and destroy beautiful meadows. Ridgeline leading to Wizard's Hat has countless sandy benches & wide kitty litter spots available to bivy; however, note you'll be a bit far from water so plan accordingly.