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Peak 12,358 Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 11,698 ft | 3,566 m |
| GPS: |
36.96271, -118.51011 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 1,325 total · 25/month | |
| Shared By: | Taimur Ahmad on Aug 30, 2020 | |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Peak 12,358 is part of the Marion Peak ridgeline - I'm not sure if it counts as a fully independent peak or simply a highpoint, but regardless of classification, its north/northwest face hosts a stunning chunk of rock that is nearly a thousand feet high.
Approach description starts here, as there wasn't enough space in the "Getting There" section:
The approach is long and difficult. The approaches listed here are the same as for Marion Peak and will also work for general access to the Lake Basin and Cartridge Pass areas.
A west side approach starting at Road's End is possible - see the following SummitPost page on Marion Peak for west side approach options: summitpost.org/marion-peak/….
An east side approach via the Taboose Pass trail is the shorter option. High clearance is mandatory to make it all the way to the trailhead. The following trails are all present on the 7.5' USGS quad maps. From the trailhead at ~5,500 feet, climb nearly 6,000 feet and 8 miles on good trail with plentiful water to the pass at ~11,350 feet. The trail is exposed and sunny the entire time, with the exception of a beautiful section of white fir forest at the approximate midway point. From the pass, drop down ~1,300 feet to the JMT (two different trail options for doing this, a shortcut is possible by taking the north branch of the trail and then briefly cutting cross country to hit the JMT - depending on route, ~2.5-3.5 miles).
Approach description starts here, as there wasn't enough space in the "Getting There" section:
The approach is long and difficult. The approaches listed here are the same as for Marion Peak and will also work for general access to the Lake Basin and Cartridge Pass areas.
A west side approach starting at Road's End is possible - see the following SummitPost page on Marion Peak for west side approach options: summitpost.org/marion-peak/….
An east side approach via the Taboose Pass trail is the shorter option. High clearance is mandatory to make it all the way to the trailhead. The following trails are all present on the 7.5' USGS quad maps. From the trailhead at ~5,500 feet, climb nearly 6,000 feet and 8 miles on good trail with plentiful water to the pass at ~11,350 feet. The trail is exposed and sunny the entire time, with the exception of a beautiful section of white fir forest at the approximate midway point. From the pass, drop down ~1,300 feet to the JMT (two different trail options for doing this, a shortcut is possible by taking the north branch of the trail and then briefly cutting cross country to hit the JMT - depending on route, ~2.5-3.5 miles).
Getting There
Approach beta, continued:
From the JMT, find a trail junction just south of the south fork of the Kings River. Take this trail, which is unmaintained and can vary in quality from excellent to nonexistent, down the south fork until it veers right (north) and climbs up a steep hillside (~2 miles and ~600 feet of descent to the turnoff). The trail can be hard to follow and the turnoff hard to find, but the navigation is simple enough - once roughly at the turnoff spot head uphill, aiming for the low point in the skyline, climbing until you reach a lake (~1.25 miles and ~1400 feet of gain to the lake).
Finishing this climb, you'll be by an unnamed lake in a basin below Cartridge Pass. Though the trail continues over the pass, it's far quicker to leave the trail at this point. Head left, skirting the left side of the lake, and climb upslope towards an obvious pass to the left of Cartridge Pass along the ridgeline. This is listed in the Secor book as "Pete's Col," and is located precisely at the "e" in "Cirque Crest" in the USGS maps. Climb cross country to the top of the col (~1 mile and ~600 feet of gain), and then descend fairly easy 3rd class on the west side, dropping down steep talus into a small valley. Follow the valley/drainage downslope for a short way until you reach a small, unnamed lake directly below the walls of Peak 12,358 (~1 mile and ~1,000 feet of descent to the lake). This lake, or the bench just slightly above it, are the best campsites, though camping lower down at Marion Lake is also a decent option.
Overall this approach is roughly ~8,000 feet of gain and ~16-18 miles (depending on route taken) on a mixture of good trail, mediocre trail, and cross country. Though of course possible to do in a day, with a heavy pack the vast majority of people will want to do this over two days. Since going back out is mostly downhill, it is far more feasible to exit in one day if desired.
From the JMT, find a trail junction just south of the south fork of the Kings River. Take this trail, which is unmaintained and can vary in quality from excellent to nonexistent, down the south fork until it veers right (north) and climbs up a steep hillside (~2 miles and ~600 feet of descent to the turnoff). The trail can be hard to follow and the turnoff hard to find, but the navigation is simple enough - once roughly at the turnoff spot head uphill, aiming for the low point in the skyline, climbing until you reach a lake (~1.25 miles and ~1400 feet of gain to the lake).
Finishing this climb, you'll be by an unnamed lake in a basin below Cartridge Pass. Though the trail continues over the pass, it's far quicker to leave the trail at this point. Head left, skirting the left side of the lake, and climb upslope towards an obvious pass to the left of Cartridge Pass along the ridgeline. This is listed in the Secor book as "Pete's Col," and is located precisely at the "e" in "Cirque Crest" in the USGS maps. Climb cross country to the top of the col (~1 mile and ~600 feet of gain), and then descend fairly easy 3rd class on the west side, dropping down steep talus into a small valley. Follow the valley/drainage downslope for a short way until you reach a small, unnamed lake directly below the walls of Peak 12,358 (~1 mile and ~1,000 feet of descent to the lake). This lake, or the bench just slightly above it, are the best campsites, though camping lower down at Marion Lake is also a decent option.
Overall this approach is roughly ~8,000 feet of gain and ~16-18 miles (depending on route taken) on a mixture of good trail, mediocre trail, and cross country. Though of course possible to do in a day, with a heavy pack the vast majority of people will want to do this over two days. Since going back out is mostly downhill, it is far more feasible to exit in one day if desired.
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