Main Face Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 678 ft | 207 m |
GPS: |
42.13452, -72.32229 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 4,403 total · 77/month | |
Shared By: | Sprax Lines on Jun 14, 2020 | |
Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
This 120' tall wall faces west. Trees shade the bottom in the afternoon. Most of its area is unprotected slab with some less-steep bands, dishes, and ledges 40 or more feet above the ground. One tree grows from a small ledge in the middle, and two more trees from a crack system on the far right. The left end is steep and clean all the way to the top. The right half features many more holds but also lichen, moss, and dirt. A 60-meter rope is too short to rappel or TR from the top.
Getting There (from Macomber Road)
The shortest access trail leads from a power-line cut to the top of the cliff, as detailed in the overview, comments, and the Rhode Island Climbing page ( climbri.org/bunyan.htm). You can avoid tramping across the dairy farmer's field by taking the right (south) trail from the end of Macober Road. This trail (actually a power-line access road) parallels the right side of the field. When the field ends, turn left, then right again at the next power-line. The trail from the power line to the cliff cuts off left a bit before the power line drops downhill (see the photo). Later, an elaborate cairn marks a smaller trail branching right from the main trail. This smaller trail meets the cliff directly over the middle of the Main Face, continues left, and eventually zigzags down to the bottom. (To rappel from any of the trees above the main face, you you'd need at least a 70m rope, maybe 80m.)
Regarding private property: we asked the dairy farmer's permission, and he told us where to park. Somewhere near the bigger trail in the woods, before the cliff-top trail forks off, we saw an old No Trespassing sign, but no apparent boundary. I believe it is the same sign I saw 15 years ago. When I asked some locals about it then, they said not to worry about it. So I don't really know. It seems like the bigger trail gets more traffic than the climber trail, and it continues long past the climber trail. So there must be other ways in to the cliff.
Regarding private property: we asked the dairy farmer's permission, and he told us where to park. Somewhere near the bigger trail in the woods, before the cliff-top trail forks off, we saw an old No Trespassing sign, but no apparent boundary. I believe it is the same sign I saw 15 years ago. When I asked some locals about it then, they said not to worry about it. So I don't really know. It seems like the bigger trail gets more traffic than the climber trail, and it continues long past the climber trail. So there must be other ways in to the cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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