Mindless Devotion Rock Climbing

One of a multitude of quality multi-pitch climbs on Copper.

P1: 5.9, sport, 12 bolts. 30m.
There is a root that can be slung for protection after the second bolt. We will add a bolt to this spot shortly when the root becomes untrustworthy. A couple friction and mantle moves early on then standard face climbing on rounded ledges. Pleasant.

P2: 5.10a, mixed, 2 bolts, gear to #5 or a mild runout. +30m.
To access this pitch head right along a wide dirt ledge from P1 to a two bolt belay by a birch and pine. Start up a crack in an alcove and pull a small roof at the top. Head up the easy broken cracks above to a wide point with a rock fall scar above. This is where you may want a wide piece. Pull a single offwidth move and then gracefully step right and up two bolts to the bolted belay. Sting in the tail.

P3: 5.8, sport, 9 bolts. 15m.
Head up and right on good holds to a two bolt belay by the birch. Only critical holds have been cleaned.

P4: 5.10-, mixed, 4 bolts. Good gear selection for finger sized cracks. 25m.
The money! Head up through an easy, fun roof on jugs then enter the finger crack above.
The crack starts thin but quickly widens to fingers. There are a few chock stones, all have been tested with a big metal bar. Follow the sustained finger crack up about 15 metres to a bolted arrete and a ledge belay (bolted). Airy and pumpy for the grade.

P5: 5.7, trad. +35m.

Aesthetic corner. Starts small but after bypassing a roof on the right, a second crack appears. Still a bit of sand in the corner crack up high but the second crack is clean and good for easy protection. Tree belay.

Descent: Walk off the LOTR trail or 6 rappels. 1: From the tree it is a short rappel over and left to a dedicated rappel station (5m). 2: To the station at the top of P4. 3: Rappel P4. 4: Rappel the fall line to a station mid wall right of pitch 2. 5: To the ledge at the base of P2. 6: Rappel pitch 1.