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Elevation: 4,611 ft 1,405 m
GPS: 33.28112, -111.07415
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,752 total · 123/month
Shared By: Manny Rangel on Mar 15, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This iconic rhyolite cliff band is immense. It will become a great resource after RCM completes the land swap. The management plan has been approved and climbing is a recognized activity here. There has been a lot of recent activity in the middle section of Apache leap. It now boasts the longest routes at queen creek up to 6 pitches long. All routes are bolted sport climbs and can be done with a 70 meter rope and 25 quickdraws. If you like long steep well bolted sport climbs you might want to check this place out.

Getting There Suggest change

North End:  Start at the parking for Lower Looner Land and Magma gardens (just before the mine entrance).  Head west.  See Marty Karabin's book, "Queen Creek Canyon," for approach details and routes.

Middle part, from the east: Start at the parking for Lower Looner Land and Magma gardens (just before the mine entrance); head south-west until you reach a dirt road leading to a drilling pad. Follow the road south-west over the saddle: you'll see the well pad at the bottom of the valley. About halfway down the hill, turn right onto a well-marked trail heading up the valley in a south-west direction. You'll pass by Magma Gardens on your right. About a mile from the parking (30 minute hike), you'll see a saddle on your left (see picture) and the marked trail will head south. Follow the marked trail for 0.7 miles (about 30 minutes) south. It will eventually turn right and lead you to the top of the climbing area.

Middle Part, from the west: In Superior, head south on AZ 177 for 0.5 miles. Across from Ray Rd., take a left onto a dirt road (4WD) and head up the valley. There is a gate (locked, as of spring 2021) about half way up the road, at the edge of the Resolution Copper land. The hike from the gate to the end of the road is about 25 minutes. At the end of the road, there is a large well pad. A couple hundred yards before the pad, head uphill heading southeast: there is no established path. The base of the wall can be reached in about a half hour. This area contains the largest walls in the Queen Creek area.

South End:  To get to Geronimo and @ 20+ more climbs on the Southern part of the wall, take Magma Mine Road past the Oak Flat campground. After 1.5 miles, turn left onto the dirt road FR315; reset odometer at gate and drive @ 7/10th mile. On the east/left is the end of a broad flat area, look west/right for cairn to a dim trail that heads west up the canyon for 30min. You'll arrive at the Leap's edge. To access Geronimo, Broken Arrow, et cetera, hike north/right along climber's trail to it's end (@10-15min). After you pass under a small wall look for coldshuts on large west-facing blocks at trail's end. Be cautious when looking over the edge.

25 Total Climbs

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Location: Apache Leap Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Apache Leap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Geronimo
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Net Positive Impact
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Victorio
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Naiche's Escape
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
Knotty Tower
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Broken Arrow
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Mangas
Sport 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Coloradas
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Lozen
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Ussen
Sport 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Apache Wolf
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Geronimo Geronimo Area
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Net Positive Impact Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Victorio Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Naiche's Escape Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Knotty Tower Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Broken Arrow Geronimo Area
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mangas Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 4 pitches
Coloradas Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Lozen Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Ussen Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Apache Wolf Hall of Legends, Mid-…
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Apache Leap »

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