Cerro Chaltén (Cerro Fitz Roy) Rock Climbing

Most common approach:

The adventure begins from the town of El Chaltén where you hike the popular trail approximately 10km to Lago de los Tres.  Then scramble up the left (Southern) slopes of the lake to find a fixed line.  The fixed line is hidden away from tourists and is very difficult to find.  Stay low as you scramble up the slopes, maybe 30m until you find an obvious, lone, random bolt along a ledge.  If you were to continue from here, you would see a smattering of 4 more random bolts which (I assume) make a rappel anchor for guided parties.  Instead, go straight downhill from the first bolt to a large cairn and another bolt with the fixed line.  3rd class down climbing will take you back to the shores of the lake where you will soon see the second fixed line which ascends the 4th class hillside to a scree field.  Cross the moraine (bivy options here) between the larger and smaller lakes to the glacier (Gl. de los Tres).  Ascend the glacier to find yet another short (15m) fixed line on a low-angle rock or mixed corner.  Ascend the ridge on the North side (climber's right) and make your way back to the South side (climber's left) to gain the upper snow field.  Follow easy snow to Paso Superior (high camp).  

Paso Superior is a popular advanced base camp from which most objectives in the Massif may be accomplished in a push.  It is relatively sheltered in a snow bowl, but may be exposed in high winds.  On the back (North) side, there is a fixed rope down 20m of 4th class terrain to get down to the glacier (Gl. Piedras Blancas).  Ascend the glacier to get to the bergshrund (1-2hrs).

According to the guidebook, there are three ways to gain the ridge: the rappel couloir (just below the Brecha de los Italianos), the rock spur just left of the couloir, and the steep snow further left.  Approximately 100% of all parties (give or take) approach via the steep snow (the third option), as we did.  From the bergshrund just below the toe of the rock (usually just a step-across, but may go "out" in late season), we harnessed up with rock and ice gear, ascending steep snow and ice (up to 60deg) for 250m.  We stayed close to the rock and protected with rock gear since the angle was steep enough and the consequences fatal enough, but many parties solo the snow/ice, roping up for the last rock portion.  Since the steep snow was endless, calf-burning front-pointing, we were glad to have steel, hybrid, horizontal crampons here and also on the summit slopes, although many climbers just wear strap-ons (of the aluminum variety).  Once near the ridgeline, there are likely a few ways to ascend the rock from 3rd class to low 5th but rock shoes are not necessary.  Choose your adventure.    

Once over the ridgeline and on the West side, you are rewarded with views of Desmochada, Cerro Torre, and Aguja de la Silla.

There are a couple bivy spots where a tent can be set up just under Brecha de los Italianos.  From here, in order to gain the ridgeline from la Brecha to la Silla, there are many possible low-5th class routes.  However, the best way is to find a 45m fixed line on the right, just past la Brecha and climb 4th class terrain to a 3rd class walkway just under the ridgeline (still on the West side) until you get to the snow.  You can also climb various 4th/low-5th class gullies.  La Silla is usually always icy but is low angle (and exposed!) to the base of the route and may be protected with ice screws if you like.