Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2130 ft (645 m), 14 pitches, Grade V
FA: Guido Magnone and Lionel Terray (France), 2/2/1952. Alberto Bendinger, Eduardo Brenner, Marcos Couch and Peter Friedrich (Argentina), 10/3/1984.
Page Views: 5,616 total · 101/month
Shared By: Priti Wright on Mar 5, 2019
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route

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Franco-Argentina is a highly aesthetic line combining glacier travel, steep snow, mixed terrain, and hard/pure rock climbing. The technical portion of the route is 650m long containing 14 (or so) rock/mixed pitches up to 5.11b (or 5.10b/C1...heavy emphasis on the C1) and many hundreds of meters of 45-55deg hard snow/ice.


Starting from the town of El Chaltén which sits at roughly 1,300 feet, you ascend 9,710 vertical feet over 10.5mi to reach the summit of Cerro Fitz Roy (Cerro Chaltén) which towers over all the surrounding granite spires of the Chaltén Massif. The upper summit slopes require crampons, boots, and ice tools which were carried in a single pack by the follower.

Approach to Paso Superior. Bivy options here at the col.
Traverse snowy glacier to base of La Brecha and ascend la Brecha de los Italianos. Bivy options available, but can be windy.

Ascend to La Silla, and the base of the route is at the toe of the steep snow slope directly above.


Double Rack to 3 with triples .4-1, single #4, 4 ice screws (1 shorty), 1 picket each (approach only), 60m single rope, 60m Esprit pull cord, steel hybrid crampons, 2 tools each on approach (we brought two tools total on route, although many parties bring three tools total on route).
Fixed piton anchors