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El Corazón
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Cerro Chaltén (Cerro Fitz Roy)
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Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Care Bear Traverse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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El Corazón T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Franco-Argentina T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c AI3 Steep Snow |
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Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 Steep Snow PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 4100 ft (1242 m), 40 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | FA: Kaspar Ochsner (Switzerland) and Michal Pitelka (Czech), 20/02/1992. FFA: Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, 2011 upper 2/3 of the route with var |
| Page Views: | 998 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Karow on Mar 6, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
El Corazón climbs one of the most aesthetic lines in the entire Chalten Massif to the summit of it’s tallest mountain. The 4000+ foot east face looks like a perfect pyramid from the base and El Corazón climbs a line of splitter cracks straight up the middle.
Climb 3 or so approach pitches on lower angle rock, ice and snow to the base of the true start. It appears rock fall may have altered the original start to the route but there is a low angle ramp that leads to the crack system from the left side. Climb the system to the soaking wet Aquarian Roof and get into aid mode to climb this C1 crack that would probably go free at easy 5.11 if it were ever dry. Climb more low angle pitches that are often wet or icy to the snowy ledge system. From here, the granite gets steep, golden, and splitter. Continue up incredible cracks for a few thousand feet to the summit ridge and then to the true summit via easy ice and mixed terrain. Descend The Franco-Argentina or Royal Flush. Purchase Rolo’s guidebook for a topo
January 2025 Edit: I attempted this route again and encountered a new 10 meter tall detached flake at the base of the Aquarian roof. We opted to bail and I would recommed parties interested in this route to skip the stardard start and instead climb the earlier pitches of the Pilar Este and join in on the snow ledge about a quarter of the way up.
More Info: pataclimb.com/climbingareas…
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