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Elevation: 144 ft 44 m
GPS: 42.61357, -70.72054
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 113,983 total · 1,344/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on May 1, 2018
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M

Description Suggest change

The north side is best accessed via New Way Lane. This area includes the some of the highest concentration of quality boulders on Cape Ann with many, many problems and several classics. The Remnant and Garden Areas also have some of the easiest approaches around making this an excellent starting point for a newcomer.

The historic problems with the landowner at the end of New Way Lane seem to have quieted down.

Getting There Suggest change

Locate New Way Lane in West Gloucester, and park right at the end at the pullout with the gate on your right. Do not block the gate! There is parking for 2 cars at most there.

Alternate parking can be found just off the highway exit near the Redrock area, but a bushwhack is required.

148 Total Climbs

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Location: North Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 8
Pouty Lip
Boulder
V1 5
 5
Carpal Tunnel
Boulder
V1 5
 6
Young Adult Friction
Boulder
V2 5+
 9
The Big Issue
Boulder
V2 5+
 6
Silent Witness
Boulder
V3 6A
 7
Happy Hour
Boulder
V3 6A
 7
Hubris
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 14
Strong Herb
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 7
Off the Grid
Boulder
V5- 6C
 4
The Golden Hour
Boulder
V5 6C
 15
Prophecy
Boulder
V6 7A
 17
Final Judgment
Boulder
V6 7A
 8
Autopsy
Boulder
V7 7A+
 7
Power of the Cross
Boulder
V9 7C
 10
NE Dragon
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pouty Lip New Wave Boulder
 8
V0 4 Boulder
Carpal Tunnel Garden > Monster Boulder
 5
V1 5 Boulder
Young Adult Friction Mt Ann > S Dome > S Dome Slab
 6
V1 5 Boulder
The Big Issue Remnant Boulder… > Mansion Boulder
 9
V2 5+ Boulder
Silent Witness Remnant Boulder… > Vernal Pool Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
Happy Hour Happy Hour Boulder
 7
V3 6A Boulder
Hubris Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 7
V3 6A Boulder
Strong Herb Garden > Alcove Boulder
 14
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Off the Grid Garden > Monster Boulder
 7
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
The Golden Hour Satellite Boulder
 4
V5- 6C Boulder
Prophecy Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 15
V5 6C Boulder
Final Judgment Beehive Boulders
 17
V6 7A Boulder
Autopsy Garden > Monster Boulder
 8
V6 7A Boulder
Power of the Cross Garden > Monster Boulder
 7
V7 7A+ Boulder
NE Dragon Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 10
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in North Side »

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