Elevation: 144 ft
GPS: 42.614, -70.721 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76,075 total · 2,079/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on May 1, 2018
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

Description

The north side is best accessed via New Way Lane. This area includes the some of the highest concentration of quality boulders on Cape Ann with many, many problems and several classics. The Remnant and Garden Areas also have some of the easiest approaches around making this an excellent starting point for a newcomer.

The historic problems with the landowner at the end of New Way Lane seem to have quieted down.

Getting There

Locate New Way Lane in West Gloucester, and park right at the end at the pullout with the gate on your right. Do not block the gate! There is parking for 2 cars at most there.

Alternate parking can be found just off the highway exit near the Redrock area, but a bushwhack is required.

147 Total Climbs

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Location: North Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 4
Main Crack
Boulder
V2 5+
 8
The Fortelling
Boulder
V2 5+
 6
Silent Witness
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Slice 'n Dice
Boulder
V3 6A
 7
Hubris
Boulder
V4 6B
 3
Freight Train
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 5
Off the Grid
Boulder
V5- 6C
 4
The Golden Hour
Boulder
V5 6C
 8
Prophecy
Boulder
V6- 7A
 4
Autopsy
Boulder
V6 7A
 11
Final Judgment
Boulder
V9 7C
 3
NE Dragon
Boulder
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Cape Smear
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Smear Pressure
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
The Sum of All Smears
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Main Crack Mt Ann > S Dome > S Dome Slab
 4
V1 5 Boulder
The Fortelling Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 8
V2 5+ Boulder
Silent Witness Remnant Boulder… > Vernal Pool Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
Slice 'n Dice Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Hubris Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 7
V3 6A Boulder
Freight Train Beehive Boulders
 3
V4 6B Boulder
Off the Grid Garden > Monster Boulder
 5
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
The Golden Hour Satellite Boulder
 4
V5- 6C Boulder
Prophecy Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 8
V5 6C Boulder
Autopsy Garden > Monster Boulder
 4
V6- 7A Boulder
Final Judgment Beehive Boulders
 11
V6 7A Boulder
NE Dragon Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 3
V9 7C Boulder
Cape Smear Mt Ann > Middle Slab
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Smear Pressure Mt Ann > Middle Slab
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
The Sum of All Smears Mt Ann > Middle Slab
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
More Classic Climbs in North Side »

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