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Lower Tier Rock Climbing
Routes in Lower Tier
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Bleeding Heart T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bobbing For Frogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dr Crankenstein T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle Scratch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flirtin' With Disaster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Formless and Void T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fuzz's Fire Insurance T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hank Jr Takes the Whipper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Horus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jonah T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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King Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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MTV (More Than Vertical) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Kid in Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poet's Return T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rona V1 5 |
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Rona Direct V2 5+ |
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Second Date T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeaky Clean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Struggle Bus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trial and Error S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown Face Climb on Gorilla Pillar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 2,300 ft | 701 m |
| GPS: |
35.4736, -82.23673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 22,461 total · 279/month | |
| Shared By: | Aaron Parlier on Apr 29, 2018 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
The Lower Tier offers a variety of climbing on high quality Henderson Gneiss just as all the Rumbling Bald and Hickory Nut Gorge areas. Routes span a range of difficulties from 5.7 to 5.11+.
When you come through the tunnel and keep going down, around, and then up the base of the rock you reach the south side of the Lower Tier. These routes tend to be steep and quite varied, each offering an experience of its own. South side routes include those from Formless and Void to Fuzz's Fire Insurance. Do not climb the steep gully above Formless as this is not a designated trail.
King Wing, Horus and, and Fuzz's Fire Insurance finish to the Fuzz Ledge. From this ledge Dr Crankenstein goes left as the ledge thins to a wild airborne move, with a second vertical pitch following. MTV climbs the nice dihedral then up and right to a belay, from which it takes a left for a second pitch or a right alternate finish called Squeaky Clean, both offering nice slab climbing. An anchor station on the Fuzz Ledge installed by CCC serves the routes below and those leaving from the Ledge. Access this anchor from easier routes Like Fuzz's or P1 of Bobbing to top rope King Wing and Horus. Mix and match routes to and from the Fuzz Ledge for a great experience. Please be careful of the Granite Dome Goldenrod growing on this ledge.
Poet's Return and Bobbing For Frogs take on the lower slab, finishing to the same belay. The Fuzz Ledge can be accessed by going left, or climb right behind the flake for the second pitch of Bobbing.
Just to the right as you come out of the tunnel, Hank Jr addresses the steep slab with some highly sequenced face and friction moves in the crux, and can be finished in two pitches or one very long one. Second date starts up the hill to the right by going up easy slab, then traversing left to water grooves that deepen into crack systems for one long pitch. Bleeding Heart climbs the crack/flake system immediately right of Second date. Further right, Flirtin' with Disaster ascends right-angling cracks into thin face and slab moves.
With a range of difficulties and types of routes at the Lower Tier, some top roping opportunities, and some remaining new route potential, this area is well worth a trip.
Extensive rebolting by CCC has done a great deal to restore old routes throughout Eagle Rock, and is ongoing. Hats off to them!
When you come through the tunnel and keep going down, around, and then up the base of the rock you reach the south side of the Lower Tier. These routes tend to be steep and quite varied, each offering an experience of its own. South side routes include those from Formless and Void to Fuzz's Fire Insurance. Do not climb the steep gully above Formless as this is not a designated trail.
King Wing, Horus and, and Fuzz's Fire Insurance finish to the Fuzz Ledge. From this ledge Dr Crankenstein goes left as the ledge thins to a wild airborne move, with a second vertical pitch following. MTV climbs the nice dihedral then up and right to a belay, from which it takes a left for a second pitch or a right alternate finish called Squeaky Clean, both offering nice slab climbing. An anchor station on the Fuzz Ledge installed by CCC serves the routes below and those leaving from the Ledge. Access this anchor from easier routes Like Fuzz's or P1 of Bobbing to top rope King Wing and Horus. Mix and match routes to and from the Fuzz Ledge for a great experience. Please be careful of the Granite Dome Goldenrod growing on this ledge.
Poet's Return and Bobbing For Frogs take on the lower slab, finishing to the same belay. The Fuzz Ledge can be accessed by going left, or climb right behind the flake for the second pitch of Bobbing.
Just to the right as you come out of the tunnel, Hank Jr addresses the steep slab with some highly sequenced face and friction moves in the crux, and can be finished in two pitches or one very long one. Second date starts up the hill to the right by going up easy slab, then traversing left to water grooves that deepen into crack systems for one long pitch. Bleeding Heart climbs the crack/flake system immediately right of Second date. Further right, Flirtin' with Disaster ascends right-angling cracks into thin face and slab moves.
With a range of difficulties and types of routes at the Lower Tier, some top roping opportunities, and some remaining new route potential, this area is well worth a trip.
Extensive rebolting by CCC has done a great deal to restore old routes throughout Eagle Rock, and is ongoing. Hats off to them!
Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Tier
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Routes Mostly Face: East · Southeast · South
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