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Areas in Eagle Rock

Lower Tier 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
North Eagle 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Upper Tier 9 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Elevation: 370 ft
GPS: 35.604, -79.278 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,685 total · 36/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Oct 4, 2007 with updates from Mike Reardon
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
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Description [Suggest Change]

"As of May 4th, 2018,  climbing will be permitted at the Eagle Rock Crags.  This new climbing and hiking access was made possible by the partnership between Chimney Rock State Park, Conserving Carolina, and the Carolina Climbers Coalition. The opening of the Eagle Rock Crags represents the first expanded rock climbing access within Chimney Rock State Park. The trail leading to the base of many climbs and boulders was funded by the Carolina Climbers Coalition, Conserving Carolina, REI Conservation Grant, and the American Alpine Club Cornerstone Grant. Due to limited parking, visitors to this area MUST call Chimney Rock State Park at  (828) 625-9611 to obtain a free parking permit or visit their website, and parking directions for easy access to the Eagle Rock Crags. If you do not have a permit, climbers can access the area via Buffalo Creek Park, but this would require an 8 mile walk via the newly constructed Weed Patch Mt. Trail. Get a parking permit and display it in your windshield.  Be respectful of private property and adjacent landowners, parking violations are subject to a fine or towing. While in the area, please keep quiet, as private property borders the park boundaries and we want to keep our neighbors happy. You can print a cliff map from the Carolina Climbers Coalition here: carolinaclimbers.org/sites/… "

When facing the North Face of The Bald from below, Eagle Rock is the crag furthest to the right, high on the ridge and facing roughly east. The summit of Eagle boasts arguably the best view in the state park which on a clear day reveals Shortoff, Table Rock, Grandfather Mt and Mt Mitchell, the highest peak in the eastern US.  The south side of Eagle is broken into two tiers.  The easily accessible upper wall has several obvious lines. The lower tier is approached via the new trail on the north side.  DO NOT walk up or down the gully!  The lower tier has taller routes, many dating back to the 80's.Most of the info on these older lines comes from an underground guide entitled Eagle Rock Climbs, A Guide To New Routes on Bald Mountain by James Bowles, Tom Willis and Steve Donnini.  The northside is the first approached by the new trail.
There are three cliffs to the right as you look back at the Bald from the overlook. The first and biggest has a few old routes and has been called the Rez Wall. The next cliff is not very good but has a few routes. The third, rather scruffy looking crag is called Black Bear Buttress and it is incredible and the subject of a separate entry in this database.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Contact Chimney Rock State Park to access parking directions and a free parking permit. Parking is very limited, which is the reason for the permit system. You may also reserve a permit online, on their website.
Hike up from the parking area and Eagle will be on the left.  Or hike the 8 miles from Buffalo Creek.

23 Total Climbs

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A video, beta, climber cliff map, and more info on the opening of this great spot here: grounduppublishing.com/?p=1195 May 20, 2018

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