Elevation: 1,015 ft
GPS: 48.415, -123.604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,026 total · 79/month
Shared By: Ben Murphy-Baum on Apr 24, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

Description

Sugarloaf is a secluded crag in about 15km outside of Victoria and hosts a number of routes 5.8 to 5.11. Rock is generally solid, but could use some cleaning in some spots. All but two of the routes are fully bolted. Great for doing long, moderate sport climbs up to 40-45 meters. Two pitches bring many of the routes to the top of the wall, which you can walk off. At the top you get beautiful views of the Olympic range and Sooke basin. The first pitch of many of these climbs is in the 40m range, so having two ropes with you is smart if you're not planning on topping out. Bring your 70m if you've got it.

Getting There

Follow the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, and turn left on West Shore Parkway. At the roundabout, continue straight to stay on Westshore Pkwy. Turn right onto Juan De Fuca Hwy/Sooke Rd/BC-14 W. Parking for the Sooke Hills Regional Park, South Section, is on the right. Your hike to Sugarloaf starts here. Follow the main trail and cross the bridge. Turn left and follow the well travelled (and SICA flagged) trail for about an hour. 

Or, at the bridge, turn right and find the Townsend Trail (Summit Trail). Once at the Summit (one hour), move skiers' left down the gully eventually moving skiers' right to the bottom of the cliff.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Electric Doughnut
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Fair Warning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Electric Doughnut
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Fair Warning
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf »

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