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Routes in Sugarloaf

Electric Doughnut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fair Warning S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left, Right, and Wrong S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Elevation: 1,015 ft
GPS: 48.415, -123.604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 286 total · 49/month
Shared By: Ben Murphy-Baum on Apr 24, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn
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Description

Sugarloaf is a secluded crag in about 15km outside of Victoria and hosts a number of routes 5.8 to 5.11. Rock is generally solid, but could use some cleaning in some spots. All but two of the routes are fully bolted. Great for doing long, moderate sport climbs up to 40-45 meters. Two pitches bring many of the routes to the top of the wall, which you can walk off. At the top you get beautiful views of the Olympic range and Sooke basin. The first pitch of many of these climbs is in the 40m range, so having two ropes with you is smart if you're not planning on topping out. Bring your 70m if you've got it.

Getting There

Park in the pull off around 3746 Sooke Rd. Hike about 150m back towards Colwood, and find a trail just before the power lines cross the highway. Cross a river and head left up the riverside trail until you reach a fork. Head right at the fork, and head uphill. You'll eventually reach an intersection with a cairn, where you'll head right and go up a short steep section of trail. After about 100m you'll turn left at another cairn and 7m later turn right. Follow for 400m down a long hill and turn right at the bottom by another cairn. You'll cross a creek and follow the trail towards the right to the crag. Mostly just follow the trail until you hit an intersection or fork, and go in the direction of the cairn. Takes about 50-60 min.

3 Total Climbs

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