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Routes in Sugarloaf

Electric Doughnut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fair Warning S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left, Right, and Wrong S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Allen Agopsowicz, Mark Phillips, Jo-Ann Richards, 2002
Page Views: 28 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ben Murphy-Baum on Apr 24, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Shares the start of Brackyramphus (10b) before moving right onto the darker colored face, staying clear of the crack on the left. The bolt line moves right pretty early, but one of the clips puts your rope in a pretty bad spot hooked around a flakey edge. Consider using the Brakyramphus bolts until the lines truly separate a bit higher on the wall. Easier start turns into long reaches and small feet. Pretty fun!

If you're at least 150 lbs and 6 feet tall you can baaaarely manage a single rope rappel using a 70m rope (tie knots in the end of your rope). If that makes you nervous, bring up a second rope or just climb the second pitch of Electric Doughnut to top out as well. 

Location

First bolt line to the left of Electric Doughnut, starts by mounting a small roof. 

Protection

12-13 draws + anchors

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