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Lower East Side Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lower East Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Battery Park T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bowery Bums T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Brooklyn Bridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Canal Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Clifford Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Delancey Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Great Wide Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Limón T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lincoln Tunnel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Movin' On Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Seventh Avenue Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ten Dollar Toll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Uptown Hustler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Working Class Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	5,274 ft
GPS:	36.093, -115.48 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,910 total · 212/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Apr 5, 2018
Admins:	Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This major buttress is located on the lower east side of Mount Wilson. It is home to a variety of moderate trad routes. Although there are scattered signs of early exploration, not much ativity occurred here until the 2000s.

North Shoulder rappel:
This is the "standard" exit from the top of the right side of the crag. From the large ledge area, make one short (single rope) rappel to an exposed, hanging stance from a pine tree on the wall to the north. From here, a long double rope rappel reaches third class terrain on the Lady Wilson approach. Scramble down to the notch and continue down the approach gully.

Summit Rappel:
From the summit of the buttress, one can scramble west (toward the main wall) and do a short rappel to easier ground from which one can go north and join the Lady Wilson approach "path." Scramble and down climb this (following many ducks) to reach the notch at the top of the approach gully.

Getting There

The approach is mainly up an old jeep track that is halfway between the First Creek trail and the old Oak Creek road. This jeep track is not easily accessed from the highway. Start at the First Creek trailhead, and immediately after crossing the wash (approx 50 yards from parking area) go right (northwest) following faint and anastamosing trails while staying left (west) of the main streambed. After crossing another wash coming in from the west, continue northwest until the path system bears left onto the jeep track. Follow this west past an obvious 4-way intersection. After climbing past an outcropping edge, the jeep track becomes a footpath and wanders into a small canyon for a couple of hundred yards. Exit left out of the canyon and continue left and up a gradually steepening ridge. When upward progress is blocked, contour left to the base of the wall. A steep gully/ramp leads to the right along the face.

A slightly longer (but easier to follow) route goes up the First Creek trail for a bit under a half mile, then turns right and meets the jeep track at the four-way intersection. This can also be reached via the old Oak Creek trail. See the map photo.