Elevation: 5,274 ft
GPS: 36.093, -115.48 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,910 total · 212/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 5, 2018
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
Tonight
46°F 8°C
Fri
66°F - 51°F 19°C - 11°C
Sat
72°F - 52°F 22°C - 11°C
Sun
65°F - 43°F 18°C - 6°C
Memorial Day
63°F - 49°F 17°C - 9°C
Tue
72°F - 54°F 22°C - 12°C
Wed
76°F - 57°F 24°C - 14°C
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This major buttress is located on the lower east side of Mount Wilson. It is home to a variety of moderate trad routes. Although there are scattered signs of early exploration, not much ativity occurred here until the 2000s.

North Shoulder rappel:
This is the "standard" exit from the top of the right side of the crag. From the large ledge area, make one short (single rope) rappel to an exposed, hanging stance from a pine tree on the wall to the north. From here, a long double rope rappel reaches third class terrain on the Lady Wilson approach. Scramble down to the notch and continue down the approach gully.

Summit Rappel:
From the summit of the buttress, one can scramble west (toward the main wall) and do a short rappel to easier ground from which one can go north and join the Lady Wilson approach "path." Scramble and down climb this (following many ducks) to reach the notch at the top of the approach gully.

Getting There

The approach is mainly up an old jeep track that is halfway between the First Creek trail and the old Oak Creek road. This jeep track is not easily accessed from the highway. Start at the First Creek trailhead, and immediately after crossing the wash (approx 50 yards from parking area) go right (northwest) following faint and anastamosing trails while staying left (west) of the main streambed. After crossing another wash coming in from the west, continue northwest until the path system bears left onto the jeep track. Follow this west past an obvious 4-way intersection. After climbing past an outcropping edge, the jeep track becomes a footpath and wanders into a small canyon for a couple of hundred yards. Exit left out of the canyon and continue left and up a gradually steepening ridge. When upward progress is blocked, contour left to the base of the wall. A steep gully/ramp leads to the right along the face.

A slightly longer (but easier to follow) route goes up the First Creek trail for a bit under a half mile, then turns right and meets the jeep track at the four-way intersection. This can also be reached via the old Oak Creek trail. See the map photo.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower East Side

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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Battery Park
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Battery Park
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
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