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Douvari (on Kokkinovrachos) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Douvari (on Kokkinovrachos)

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	Alternative Facts P1. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Argo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dokimos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dokimos Ext. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Erotas above the City S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hilti Maniac S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Holiday in Cambodia S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Holiday in Cambodia Ext. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Je Suis Charlie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kefala S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Kefala Ext. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Margarita S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Margarita Ext. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mataxotos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mataxotos Ext. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Metallica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mouria S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mouria Extension S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Myetoon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Myrtoon & Extension S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Palikaria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock Cleaner Ext. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Samatas S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Samatas Ext 1. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Samatas Ext 2. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Zamanfou S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zamanfou Ext. S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Elevation:	780 ft	238 m
GPS:	37.17163, 22.85599 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Robert Hall on Apr 2, 2018
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Description

Kokkinovrachos is the long, huge cliff that dominates the skyline to the north of Leonidio. Douvari is a slightly lower angled sub-area of grey limestone (vs Orange/Red/Yellow steeper areas) in the middle of the huge cliff. Being lower-angled the climbs are of a more modest grade.

Two excellent guidebooks (in English) cover the area. One is devoted only to the Leonidio areas: "Leonidio Climbing Guidebook" by Pangika, and the excellent (also English) "Greece, The Best of Sport Climbing" (2nd edition, 2017, which covers all of Greece) by Aris Theodoropoulos. Both are available in Leonidio.

The Theodoropoulos book lists 42 climbs in the Douvari section of the cliff:
five(5) are 3 to 4c+ (5.2 to about 5.7)
fifteen (15) are 5a to 5c+ (5.8- to 5.9+)
twelve (12) are 6a or 6a+ (5.10a to 5.10 a/b)
ten (10) are 6b to 6c+ ( 5.10b to 5.11 b/c)
one (1) is 7a (5.11 d)
and if that doesn't add up to 42 then chalk it up to my counting.

Getting There

From center Leonidio drive towards Vaskina. At the first hairpin turn park off the road or on a gravel road that leads right (towards the sea) Follow this dirt road for a few minutes to a well-marked sign (photo) thence up the well-marked trail 20-25 min to the base.

The trail meets the cliff near the climb Rodomelo 4c (about 5.5-5.6), climb # 21 (of 42 listed) in the Theodoropoulos book.