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Routes in Case Wall

On The Case S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open and Shut S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Description [Suggest Change]

Located downstream in Chapel Pond Canyon, this small--but quite tall-- wall is home to some historic routes. These are mostly overgrown and unclimbable in their present condition. There are a few routes, however, that are being cleaned up and are actually quite good.

The base of the cliff is rough, forested, and steeply-sloped with moss-covered talus and hidden holes. Not the best staging area. On the positive side, the routes top out on pleasant, open rock ledges with views.

For reference, this cliff is across and up canyon from the Haggis and Cold Toast buttress.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

When traveling south on NY 73 from Keene Valley, park at the first parking lot on the right after the Roaring Brook Falls parking area (the trailhead for the AMR and Giant Mountain). When traveling toward Keene Valley, this is the first parking on the left after the Beer Walls parking. This is a huge pullout (44.147279, -73.759463) and there's never anyone parked here, as it serves no trailhead.

From the parking, walk uphill to the height of land, then follow the ridge parallel to the road towards Keene Valley. After 5 min, descend the other side of the ridge into a canyon that runs parallel to the ridge. Follow this canyon towards Keene Valley to a large boulder; here, the canyon doglegs left and becomes a gully, going steeply down with cliffs on both sides. At the mouth of the gully, turn skier's left and follow the base of the cliff upcanyon to an immense, 130'-tall right-facing corner, the left wall of which overhangs. The chimney in this corner is Gunpowder Corner, a historic route that isn't really climbable in its present condition.

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