Elevation: 1,447 ft
GPS: 44.147, -73.764 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,023 total · 78/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 20, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

Located downstream in Chapel Pond Canyon, this small--but quite tall-- wall is home to some historic routes. These are mostly overgrown and unclimbable in their present condition. There are a few routes, however, that are being cleaned up and are actually quite good.

The base of the cliff is rough, forested, and steeply-sloped with moss-covered talus and hidden holes. Not the best staging area. On the positive side, the routes top out on pleasant, open rock ledges with views.

For reference, this cliff is across and up canyon from the Haggis and Cold Toast buttress.

Getting There

When traveling south on NY 73 from Keene Valley, park at the first parking lot on the right after the Roaring Brook Falls parking area (the trailhead for the AMR and Giant Mountain). When traveling toward Keene Valley, this is the first parking on the left after the Beer Walls parking. This is a huge pullout (44.147279, -73.759463) and there's never anyone parked here, as it serves no trailhead.

[Note as of 2019: Due to new parking restrictions along NY 73, this previously-never-used parking area is now used by hikers when the Roaring Brook Falls / AMR parking fills up. So you may have to park at one of the Beer Walls lots and hike down, assuming those aren't also filled with hikers.]

From the parking, walk uphill to the height of land (roughly parallel to NY 73), then follow the ridge parallel to the road towards Keene Valley. After 5 min, descend the other side of the ridge into a canyon that runs parallel to the ridge. Follow this canyon towards Keene Valley to a large boulder; here, the canyon doglegs left and becomes a gully, going steeply down with cliffs on both sides. At the mouth of the gully, turn skier's left and follow the base of the cliff upcanyon to an immense, 130'-tall right-facing corner, the left wall of which overhangs. The chimney in this corner is Gunpowder Corner, a historic route that isn't really climbable in its present condition.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Case Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Open and Shut
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Instant Makeout
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Open and Shut
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Instant Makeout
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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