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Elevation: 8,297 ft 2,529 m
GPS: 37.35, -119.42759
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,271 total · 66/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 8, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

Description Suggest change

Jaw-dropping, steep, tie dyed and just one of a kind granite wall. The crown jewel of Shuteye. Amazingly, this bada$$ wall is featured enough to allow for a good number of routes. A giant roof cuts across the lower section of it and a great ledge runs the base. Hard multipitch routes is mostly what's up. Although, the first pitches of the routes are usually the hardest and can be lowered off of. Taipan Rising is the easiest that goes all the way up the middle and checks in at 5.11 with a short A0 section on the 3rd pitch (though recently freed by steven roth at 13b!). Glory Balls (11b) goes up the left side of the main wall in 3 amazing pitches and El Portalian (11d) the right side in 4. Stacks of harder stuff in between.

Lots of other formations with many excellent routes are in the immediate area including Lower Electric, right below Electric, and Golden Eagle basically attached to it. The Bastion and the north face of Grey Eagle sit across Shuteye Creek (usually good water source).

Getting There Suggest change

2wd low clearance option: same approach as for grey eagle (Minarets road out of North Fork to 6s66, right at the fork if 2wd. Trailhead leaves from end of left fork). Keep right on the trail, cross the creek, and aim toward the proudest wall. Head up and right, then cut back left to gain the ledge at the base of the wall. Short but kind of a hump

4wd option: It is actually easier to walk here from the High Eagle area along the ridge trail/road (although the road to that area is not in good shape at the moment, making these approaches roughly equal if your stock 4x4 can't make it up or if you want to approach this way using 2wd anyway). This puts you on top of the wall and an easy scramble down the north side will lead you to the base.

7 Total Climbs

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Location: Electric Eagle Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Electric Eagle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 7
Taipan Rising
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
El Portalien
Trad 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Oh Maggie!
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Taipan Rising
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
El Portalien
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Oh Maggie!
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Electric Eagle »

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