All Locations > California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Shuteye Creek Area > Electric Eagle

Oh Maggie!

Name: Oh Maggie!
Rating: 4.0

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in Electric Eagle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cave Dweller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	El Portalien T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Glory Balls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Oh Maggie! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Taipan Rising T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
	Temple of Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Trail of Tears S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

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Type:	Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA:	S & J Jones 2003
Page Views:	844 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Brian Prince on May 5, 2020
Admins:	Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Area may be closed May 4 - June 13, 2023 Details

The Sierra NF has issued a closure order May 4 - June 13th. This is a large area closure which covers many of the main access roads in the Sierra National forest. Closure includes parts of Beasore rd. and Minarets road. Access to several popular Western Sierra climbing areas including parts of Shuteye Ridge, the Balls, Mammoth Pools etc. will be affected. Many of these roads are buried in snow at the moment anyway.

See the link below for details on the closure and a high resolution map of the closed roads

fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…

Access Issue: Area closed until June 30th, 2023 Details

Sierra National Forest has extended a large closure covering many popular Western Sierra climbing areas including Shuteye Ridge, the Balls, Courtright Reservoir etc.
Area is closed until at least June 30th

fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…

Description

One of the big ones on this wall. First pitch is the crux and can be done alone, though continuing is highly recommended

P1 - 90 feet, 10 bolts. Easy scrambling leads to the first of 3 roofs. You can clip bolts 1 and 2 above the roof before leaving the stance. The technical crux comes quick and is a funky slabby problem that leads into the pumpy 2nd roof. A great rest after this allows complete recovery and steep jugs lead over the 3rd roof to the anchor.

Very featured face leads up and left and then to the top in 3 pitches. All bolts with anchors. 10a, 11d, 10b. Continuing straight up from the top of P1 is Trail of Tears (13c)

Easiest to rap Taipan to the right at first, then use anchors on Tears/Maggie. 1 rope. Or walk off

Location

This and a collection of other routes are towards the left side of the wall. Maggie is the first route to the left of the bolted roof crack, a very obvious feature.