Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Grahm Doe, Matt Schutz, Jim Thornburg 9/12 FFA - Steven Roth
Page Views: 1,030 total · 23/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 21, 2018
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Great exposed route up the middle of the wall. Goes free at mid 5.13 but was established with a short A0 section and that's how I climbed it..

P1 - 11a - Steep moves off slopey holds leads past 2 bolts. At 2nd bolt, traverse left a ways. Don't go up the first crack you come to. Keep going left, passing gear options, then up the face past 2 more bolts to the anchor. No other pitch requires gear.

P2 - 10b - Traverse left passing a few tricky sections. Doe recommends the follower staying clipped in to a leaver biner on the last bolt to protect the moves to the anchor. Then pulling the rope. I think we did this and it worked out good.

P3 - 11a A0 or 13b - Head up and left to a roof. Pull over this then start pulling on bolts, or not. Might as well go for it at least once.

P4 - 11a - Step left then up on great, vertical knobs.

P5 - easy chickenheads to the top

Location

Starts in the middle of the wall, right where you have to make an exposed slab step if traveling from one end of the wall to the other. It's just right of the bolted roof crack.

Protection

Very light rack to #1. Maybe 15 draws, some being extendable.

There should be a stick around to clip the first bolt off the ground. Which is a good idea as it's quite exposed right away.

Rap route and/or route to the left with one rope

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