Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Grahm Doe, Matt Schutz, Jim Thornburg 9/12 FFA - Steven Roth
Page Views: 254 total · 23/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 21, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Great exposed route up the middle of the wall. Goes free at mid 5.13 but was established with a short A0 section and that's how I climbed it..

P1 - 11a - Steep moves off slopey holds leads past 2 bolts. At 2nd bolt, traverse left a ways. Don't go up the first crack you come to. Keep going left, passing gear options, then up the face past 2 more bolts to the anchor. No other pitch requires gear.

P2 - 10b - Traverse left passing a few tricky sections. Doe recommends the follower staying clipped in to a leaver biner on the last bolt to protect the moves to the anchor. Then pulling the rope. I think we did this and it worked out good.

P3 - 11a A0 or 13b - Head up and left to a roof. Pull over this then start pulling on bolts, or not. Might as well go for it at least once.

P4 - 11a - Step left then up on great, vertical knobs.

P5 - easy chickenheads to the top

Location

Starts on the right side of the big roof, just right of the bolted roof crack.

Protection

Very light rack to #1. Maybe 15 draws, some being extendable.

There should be a stick around to clip the first bolt off the ground.

Rap route and/or route to the left with one rope

Photos

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