Elevation: 797 ft
GPS: 44.034, -71.679 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Mike Robinson on Sep 4, 2017
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Along the trail and just below the summit are a good number of boulders. They range in size from small sit starts to 30ft mega blocks. A few routes look to have been established but most are untouched.

Getting There

use the trail off rt 3 just before the Indian Head Resort in Lincoln, NH. There are a few boulders along the trail but the biggest and best grouping is just below the summit appx 1.5 miles up.

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Saddens me to see these problems bolted especially when they are unlikely to see many repeates, but thats what happens when you don't claim FA's. Spent many days sleeping out under the roof and bouldering here. The route arrowhead was climbed sans bolts I believe when I was 17 then down climbed the dead tree, always dreamily looked at what is now called "Bills Escape" as potentially one of the best unclimbed highballs in New England but knew I wasn't strong enough. The crack was just referred to as the zig zag which was already cleaned with rotting ropes/cleaning gear stashed in the woods that I never saw claimed (after seeing it for a few years I hiked it out) when I got there so the FA is unknown. Great sharp climbing. There are also beautiful wild flowers that bloom here in the spring. Glad to see that some people are out enjoying the beautiful spot though, clipping the bolts is still optional ;) Apr 9, 2018
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
thank you for the info, It's sometimes difficult to know what has been done and hasn't. I reached out to local climbers and gave it a few months before bolting the routes...as far as I knew they'd not been done... Apr 14, 2018
Ya mate these things do sadly happen. Won’t lie a number of people were deeply upset when they saw this, and I hope that this is the end of bolting around this area. Bolts on routes that have been climbed as boulder problems previously will also likely be assessed to see if the bolts could be removed and patched with minimal damage. I genuinely hope you at least used SS. I think we can agree that while being one star sport routes they are incredibly classic backcountry boulder problems. Would be interested to know why you deleted the route arrowhead as well, was it my stick clipping comment? Apr 14, 2018
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
Nope, didnt remove...if you care that much clip them, patch them, and send the routes ground up. In reality its an obscure climbing spot and Im amazed that anyone is so deeply hurt by a couple bolts in a boulder that has Still not been climbed...what are you waiting for...stop being sad and send those highballs you care so much about Apr 14, 2018
Hey Mike, I am not trying to be overly confrontational or to attack you in any way and I hope that's not how it is coming off. This page was forwarded to me and given that you did the bolting I figured I would open a dialogue with you about what the community of climbers who had worked out here before you were thinking/feeling. I understand that this area is and always will be obscure, however large clean granite boulders like these are not common place in NE. Also would just like to reiterate that some of the lines you bolted had been previously climbed without bolts, and that said routes would assessed for bolt removal not all. People are still actively projecting out here and it was generally felt that due to previous ascents this would be considered a bouldering area. It also seemed odd to bolt such short tight sport routes on the boulders when the main Indian head cliff is described as "This cliff has no sport routes and demanding traditional climbing". In any case I would not be the one doing any of the "work" out there as I am based out of the West during summer/fall, I am just acting as a voice for the community.
-Cheers, Dodge Apr 26, 2018