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Routes in Sjöända

Fager S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flugor i örat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jokkmokks Jocke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Big S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zäta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 368 ft
GPS: 57.595, 16.125 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 92 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jaime Beecroft on Jul 28, 2017
Admins: Michael Sullivan
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Description

One of the best sport climbing crags in Sweden with lots of high quality routes for climbers of all levels. The crag consists of firm reddish granite. Sjöända offers several types of climbing – vertical, slab and overhanging. It it is 25 m at its highest. Here you find Mr. Big 6a+ and Solarplexus 7b+ which are among the best overhanging climbing routes in Sweden. The crag is facing east with no sun on it after 14.00 a.m. in the summer. The best time for climbing here is between June and October and the cliff dries rather quickly after rainfall.

Getting There

The crag is located about 44 km north west of Västervik. From Västervik follow the E22 towards Gamleby. Take road 135 towards Kisa and turn right after 2 km onto road —. Continue for 5 km and turn right at the Sjöända 2 sign. Turn right by the farmyard and park by the parking sign, 30 m away. The beginning of the path to the crag is located by the cowshed. There are signs to the right. The path is marked and the crag will be on your left. Do not cross the meadows. The crag is located 70 km from Linköping. Take road 35 and drive past Åtvidaberg. After 3 km turn right onto road 134 towards Kisa. After about 1 km turn left towards Dalhem. Follow the road for about 26 km. Thereafter turn left at the Kila 5 sign. Follow the gravel road until you arrive at the small village of Kila. Thereafter follow the road as it turns left and drive about 500 m until the road turns sharply to the left. Park to the right on the spot of grass by the curve. Follow the path that starts by the cowshed and continues through the forest for 600 m. It is located to the right of the spot of grass. The path is marked and the crag will be on your left.

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