Elevation: 2,576 ft
GPS: 43.332, -122.961 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,880 total · 1,648/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Jul 12, 2017 with improvements by Southwest Oregon Climbers Coalition
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
Access Issue: CLOSED! COVID-19 & Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details

Private Land

This property is privately owned by Forest Edge Investments, LLC. The owner is supportive of climbing, however, access to this property is a privilege, not a right. Please respect the rules in order to keep access open. Public access is offered with the Oregon Recreational Use Statute (ORS §105.682 et seq).

Access rules
1. Do not discharge firearms.
2. Overnight use or camping is only allowed on nearby BLM lands but not within the privately owned area which closes at sunset.
3. No smoking, open fires, or fireworks of any kind within the privately owned area. Backpacking canister stoves are permissible.
5. Practice leave no trace ethics and remove any litter you bring or find.
6. Control and pickup after your dog/s and a leash.
7. Maintain emergency access by not blocking the gate at parking area or leaving tents in road during daylight hours (between the gate and fork down to new blasted road).
8. To reduce the possibility of theft, we recommend you not leave camps unattended.

Please consider donating a small amount to the private land owner to help keep the crag awesome! Please send donations to Venmo: @glidehoneycombs. To contact the owner with questions please email: GlideHoneycombs@gmail.com

Description

A collection of small volcanic spires east of Roseburg offering mostly single-pitch sport routes with a handful of multi-pitch summit top-outs. The combs are nestled among cedar, pine, and fir trees on a hillside overlooking the Umpqua River valley. The rock is welded tuff much resembling that of Smith Rock, but with fewer nubbins and more patina and pockets. Most established routes are currently 5.10 and below, but there is definitely potential for more difficult routes: several faces could feature overhanging thuggery between jug pockets.

The combs sit on the edge of a privately owned and BLM border, which runs right through the northern end of the North Comb. The gate it located on BLM land where you can camp for free along the upper road just beyond the gate. The South Comb is on private land - be nice, leave no trace, don't block the access road. The base of the combs used to be a forest and eventually will be again, but in 2017-18 they were extensively logged and a road blasted along Manzanita Ridge, which has its drawbacks as well as its perks. Peregrine falcons nest on the Forbidden or west end of the North Comb early in spring and you should avoid climbing in this area in February until mid June (see access note and comments section for more information). The Honeycombs and the rest of Umpqua-area climbing are covered in Greg Orton's Rock Climbing Western Oregon: Umpqua.

The crag is in the temperate Oregon forest. Have DEET and be ready to put it on pronto if necessary. There's a LOT of goddamnmosquitos at the parking area sometimes (but few at the crags, thankfully). Ticks are present, but rarely carry Lyme.

Camping up top while on BLM is free. Follow BLM fire restrictions if camping on upper BLM road. Open fires are allowed outside of fire season. As with any area, practice leave no trace and help remove anything dropped by others.

Getting There

From Roseburg, get onto 138 eastbound (towards Crater Lake). Pass Dixonville, Glide, and Idleyld. After the Rock Creek bridge watch for milepost 23, very shortly afterwards a prominent sign marked "<- BLM RD 26-2-7 <-" shows up. Note: There is a great swimming hole just across the highway.

Hang a left onto the initially steep gravel road. General instructions are "follow the road that has signs of use." Ignore a disused right at 1.1mi, left then right at the sharp S surve at 2mi, take the right fork at 2.9mi, the parking area is at 4mi. The logging company has installed a bright yellow gate on your right. This is the parking spot and the lat/long given for the area. Don't block the gate!

Walk down the road and onto the trail, or at the first junction (note: camping is free to this junction), continue on the new road going downhill and to the left to reach the majority of the crags, such as the South Comb, the Forbidden Comb, and the south end of the North Comb. If you're aiming for the routes on the east end of the North Comb (which would be Bolted Beauty left to Magic Carpet), go straight on the old trail towards the trees and follow it downward to the wall.

57 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Honeycombs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Candy Shop
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Edge of Fear
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Atrus Leap
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Double Stuff
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Double Jointed
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Mystic Monkey
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Taste of Honey
Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Shorty
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Equinox, direct
Sport 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Chutes and Ladders
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Taste of Honey Overhang, variation
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
One Tuff Cookie
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Bare Naked Solstice Party
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Honey Pot
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Lost World
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Candy Shop S Comb > Fire Dome
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Edge of Fear S Comb > Secret Cleft
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Atrus Leap S Comb > Fire Dome
 17
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Double Stuff N Comb
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Double Jointed S Comb > Fire Dome
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mystic Monkey S Comb > Fire Dome
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Taste of Honey Forbidden Comb
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
Shorty S Comb > Fire Dome
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Equinox, direct S Comb > Clock Tower
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Chutes and Ladders N Comb
 14
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Taste of Honey Overhang, va… Forbidden Comb
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
One Tuff Cookie N Comb
 13
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bare Naked Solstice Party S Comb > Clock Tower
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Honey Pot Forbidden Comb
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
Lost World N Comb
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Honeycombs »

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