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The Honeycombs Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 2,593 ft | 790 m |
| GPS: |
43.33026, -122.95862 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 111,758 total · 1,205/month | |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Jul 12, 2017 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Private Land
Be sure to scroll down to "GETTING THERE" section for new access directions.
In 2022, a gate was placed by the current land owner of the Honeycombs and the Forest Investment Assoc. ( FIA) conglomerant. This new gate is located one mile up the 4-mile BLM access road into the Honeycombs, discouraging climber access. Most local climbers are now refocusing on the Callahans. But note: we've posted new directions below for easy access into the Honeycombs.
See "GETTING THERE" below for access information.
Description
A collection of small 100 to 175 ft rhyolitc tuff walls and pinnacles east of Glide/Roseburg offering mostly single-pitch sport routes with a handful of multi-pitch summit top-outs. The Honeycombs sit on top a prominent ridge above Honey Creek overlooking the North Umpqua River Valley, 15 minutes from Glide, Oregon. The rock is welded rhyolitic tuff resembling that of Smith Rock, Bucktooth (Redmans) Tooth, and Rattlesnake, but with fewer nubbins and more patina and pockets. Most established routes are currently 5.10 and below, but there is definitely potential for more difficult routes: several faces could feature overhanging thuggery between jug pockets.
The Honeycombs sit on the edge of privately owned land and BLM border, which runs right through the northern end of the North Comb. The South Comb is on private land - be nice, leave no trace, don't block the access road. Peregrine falcons nest on the Forbidden or the west end of the North Comb in early spring and you should avoid climbing at the N.Comb walls west of 'Double Stuff' and 2nd pitches on the Forbidden Comb from February through mid-June (see access note and comments section for more information). The Honeycombs and the rest of Umpqua-area climbing are covered in Greg Orton's Rock Climbing Western Oregon: Umpqua.
Camping up top while on BLM land is free. Follow BLM fire restrictions if camping on upper BLM road. Open fires are allowed outside of fire season. As with any area, practice leave no trace and help remove anything dropped by others. The nearest town is Glide, Oregon with a gas station/mini market, 3 food vendors, and a coffee house. Be sure to stop and support the local community on your way through.
Getting There (Updated May 3, 2023)
Access Time: Roseburg to Atom Cafe - 20 min; Atom Cafe to Gate - 20 min; Walk-in from gate to Honeycombs - 30 min. Total: approx. 1.5 hr from Roseburg.
From the Atom Bistro & Coffee Bar in Glide, Oregon take North Umpqua Highway 138 east approximately 12 miles (passing the Idleyld Park Store) turning left onto Rock Creek Road.
Follow Rock Creek Road (paved) to the 4.0 mile marker, or continue a little further up Rock Creek Road to several BLM campgrounds.
0.0 At Rock Creek Road 4.0 mile marker turn right, stop and zero your mileage, before continuing on over the bridge. Once you've zeroed continue over bridge and follow the well-travelled gravel road.
0.3 Stay right (straight)
0.4 Stay right (BLM Road 25228 carsonite post)
1.0 Continue on main road left.
1.6 right
2.1 Straight
2.2 Straight, passing under large boulders upslope on left side of the road.
2.8 PAY ATTENTION!! The main road will begin making a steep left climbing turn up loose gravel. Just before, at the bottom of the curve, turn right onto a lesser used road that is easily missed.
4.0 Seasonally closed gate. Back, back-down the road until the road becomes barely wide enough to turn around. Once turned around park off to the side down the road, leaving room for others to do the same.
Walk or ride a bike over mostly level, well-maintained gravel road approximately ½ mile to next gate, and approximately 1.5 miles to the gated Honeycombs spur road.
+½ mile walk From first gate at 4.0, follow the road uphill to a ridge road (this is the steepest section), follow ridge road staying right, until you come to BLM 26241 Spur Road (marked with a carsonite post) where you will continue left on main road to the next gate located at the timbered edge of the clearcut. (approximate walk between gates: 10 to 15 minutes). Also note: you will see the Honeycomb as soon as you top-out onto the ridge road.
+1.5 mile walk (approximate) From the timbered edge gate, continue following main road for about one mile until you come to the one and only spur road on your left, blocked with a yellow gate. Follow this road along the ridge then left dropping into the Honeycombs climbing area. (approximate walk-in from second gate: 20 to 30 minutes).
note: Except in campgrounds, remote camping is free on BLM managed lands. Avoid camping in the privately owned lands. Avoid exposure to fire killed snags, and live trees bordering clear-cuts, especially during high winds.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Honeycombs
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