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Routes in North Comb
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Aladdin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Berries and Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Biscuits and Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bolted Beauty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chutes and Ladders S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Croissants to the Cosmic Slaughter S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Double Stuff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Early Morning Mimosa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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House Keeping S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lost World S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magic Carpet S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moms House S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mothers Day S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One Tuff Cookie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wall Tent S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Greg Orton and Harold Hall, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 806 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Southwest Oregon Climbers Coalition on Aug 2, 2018 |
| Admins: | Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcon Nesting - Forbidden/North Comb
Details
There is a long history of peregrine falcons nesting on either the Forbidden Comb or the south side of the North Comb. This will hopefully be confirmed seasonally and posted up in the comments section. Avoid the area they are nesting in from Feb. 1st through July 1st - for the sake of the birds and your own.
Description
Lost World is commonly done is two pitches, but a very small third pitch can be added at the start to get access to a better belay station.
The climb begins with easy climbing on some dirty rock where it leads to a large platform. There is a bolted anchor here if you would like to belay your partner up so they have a better place to belay from.
The climb then leads up a slightly overhung face. A bolt line of glue in's lead straight up the face where numerous holds and foot placements are present, but the climbing is quite sustained. A second line of bolts goes to the right, which is a 10b alternative. Both lines finish at a bolted anchor with a nice belay station.
The final pitch has a mix of slab and roof mantles. Follow the ridge all the way to the summit where a bolted anchor marks the end of the climb.
To get down, you can either walk off the North Comb or you can rappel down the route. There is a rappel station at each belay platform.
The climb begins with easy climbing on some dirty rock where it leads to a large platform. There is a bolted anchor here if you would like to belay your partner up so they have a better place to belay from.
The climb then leads up a slightly overhung face. A bolt line of glue in's lead straight up the face where numerous holds and foot placements are present, but the climbing is quite sustained. A second line of bolts goes to the right, which is a 10b alternative. Both lines finish at a bolted anchor with a nice belay station.
The final pitch has a mix of slab and roof mantles. Follow the ridge all the way to the summit where a bolted anchor marks the end of the climb.
To get down, you can either walk off the North Comb or you can rappel down the route. There is a rappel station at each belay platform.
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