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Routes in Forbidden Comb

Chasing the Edge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taste of Honey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taste of Honey Overhang, variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 230 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Greg Orton and Harold Hall, 2005
Page Views: 656 total · 140/month
Shared By: Southwest Oregon Climbers Coalition on Jun 4, 2018 with updates from gso Orton
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route is closed until 2 weeks after young peregrine have fledged.

Taste of Honey is a sport route that has bolts protecting the more difficult moves, and runouts when the climbing is easy. This route gives beautiful views to the South Comb, and also to the Umpqua Watershed below. 

Pitch 1- 90' 5.9 The most difficult climbing of the route is the beginning of the first pitch. The route starts off stiff, and eases up towards the top of the first pitch. Ends at a bolted belay station.

Pitch 2- 30' 5.6 Easy climbing up, and later traversing right along a ledge. The pitch ends at a belay station above an overhang.
Alternate- 5.10b A bolt line to the right follows steeper terrain leads to the overhang

Pitch 3- 75' 5.6 Follow the arete with easy climbing to the next bolted belay

Pitch 4- 25' 5.6 Climb to the summit just left of the arete. Pull over onto the top of the Forbidden Comb for the final belay station. Look for a register at the top in a green ammo can.

Descent: Rappel down the route aiming for the overhanging belay ledge. Tie knots in the end of your rope so you don't miss belay stations

Location

The climb begins at the lowest point of the Forbidden Comb. To access the Forbidden comb, walk down the gravel road to the second large logging platform. From this point, go down the hill keeping the North Comb on your right. 

Protection

Bolted. You may want to bring slings to extend your draws
Michael Cammarata
Vancouver, WA
Michael Cammarata   Vancouver, WA
Why is this PG13? Jul 19, 2018
The route has some long runouts on the third and fourth pitch. Sometimes almost 15-20' between bolts. Jul 19, 2018
gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
gso Orton   Roseburg, OR
I think the PG is a matter of opinion. 3rd and 4th pitches are airy but easier relative to the first and second (overhang) pitches. Aug 18, 2018
Ivan Hartert
Eugene, OR
Ivan Hartert   Eugene, OR
Airy and fun. First pitch is by far the best. Definitely use the rappel rings on the south side. Aug 30, 2018
In the "Getting There" description, when traveling east of Roseburg on highway 138, you will not pass
Steamboat before turning from the highway. Also, the river bridge mentioned is a bridge crossing Rock Creek about
a half mile before milepost 23. 3 days ago

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