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Routes in 2 Sunrise Rock

Daybreak T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forest Murmurs T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Morning Glory T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mourning Cloak T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Noonmark TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rising Sun T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Routes Beyond Morning Glory T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Spring Peepers T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Man T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whispering Pines T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Description [Edit]

Beautiful views from the top, especially at sunrise! Straightforward access: about 20-30 min. on a well-marked trail, nice climbs.

Bring 50-60 ft of rope or sling for setting top ropes if that's your intention.

Getting There [Edit]

Park on Ledge Road, about 1/2 mile south of View Rd. where there's a very small pull-out on the west side. (alternately, park at the Plainville Reservoir parking; see Fire Wall for instructions on obtaining permit; and walk back north on Ledge Rd to the trailhead.

Look on the east side of the road for the path; there may be a bit of wetness crossing the drainage ditch.

See "Bradley Mtn Sketch Map": Hike up the path, which shortly makes a 90-degree turn left, then 90-degree right and climbs up somewhat steeply and then flattens out. Continue on the path/trail as it starts to swing around to the right (south) and crosses the "summit" of Sunrise. Descent paths on either side.

Nichols' "Blue Book" lists 31 climbs.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 2 Sunrise Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Morning Glory
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Rising Sun
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Morning Glory
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Rising Sun
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
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T Roper
Chosstown
T Roper   Chosstown
Take note that these descriptions are completely sandbagged and have nothing to do with modern understanding of "standard trad rack". Most of the routes have almost no gear that will hold. Aug 6, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
T Roper makes good two points - but they apply to most of CT Traprock.

Re' Grades: These were given in the late 1960's to early 1980's and are definitely "old school". Also, in the Nichol's guidebooks he writes [to the effect] "...and the grade is how the route can be climbed once you figure out the move sequence." Un-said is "how hard it may feel while you're working out this sequence."

Re' Protection: As noted in the individual descriptions, many climbs are "R" and or "X" rated. Remember also that these ratings are a best guess determination of how likely you are to get injured if you fall...not how long the fall is. (as is sometimes thought)

When I lived in CT (1986 - 2012) bolts were consistently chopped...I don't know how it is today. Aug 7, 2017
T Roper
Chosstown
T Roper   Chosstown
Are you entering these routes from memory or strait from the book? IMO Mtn Proj is better when its done from recent experience of the route, not from the worst guidebook author North America has ever known. When I started leading trad I tended to put almost all of my trust in the authors of the guide that got me there. If one was to see these ratings and go hop on a line blindly thinking its a safe 5.? they could end up on the ground, especially at a crag that hasnt seen traffic for a long long time. Aug 9, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
All the routes I enter into MtnPrjct I have personally climbed (but not necessarily led, esp. in CT where many climbs are easily [and best!] TR'd). Yes, most of the CT routes I entered are from a combination of memory and I may use a guidebook to refresh memory of the route's exact location, and some of the key moves, but if I use more than 3 or 4 consecutive words I'd put them in quotes and italic and ref. that these came from a published source.

It is customary (throughout MtnProject, and when someone writes a new guidebook) to maintain the FA-er's grade and 'safety' rating, and I usually do that. I am more likely to change the Safety Ratings to a more serious grade than the difficulty rating; but in almost every case I mention it in the text. Safety Ratings are incredibly more subjective for many reasons:
1) There's only 4 or them: G, PG, R and X
2) Some folk confuse the safety rating with the length of the fall. A 10 ft fall can be R or X, while some 40 footer's can be G or PG.
3) A lot has to do with the experience of the climber relative to placing protection. (BTW, regardless of what you think of his actions, Ken was/is one of the best at "sniffing out" protection points.)
4) Some climbers rate only the Safety at the crux move;...OK if, for example, the climb is a 5.9 with all other moves 5.5 or 5.6, but not OK if the crux is 5.9 G and there's a few 5.8 R's or X moves. [IMO this is an area Ken's guidebooks are "deficient" in.] Aug 9, 2017

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