C Bluff Rock Climbing

The Bluff:
C Bluff, located next to C pond, in Township C (population 0), answers the call for adventure. You won’t find any crowds, or over bolted boring sport climbs, or phone reception. Instead, you’ll find an all day affair that involves mountain bikes, wildlife, isolation, wildly exposed multi-pitch trad routes, and new route potential on large grained granite! All the ingredients to satisfy your urge to explore.

The first and second documented climbs went up the tallest section, 500ft, located just left of center. FA: C Monster 5.9 III 500ft Pokey Amory & Randy Baker summer of 2011. Their topo is included in the photos for C Monster. Great trip report of the second ascent posted here. So far, Erik Brooks and myself (Silas Miller) have done four other routes, most of which seem to be mostly 5.9 with 5.11 cruxes. There is huge potential for more routes, lots of face routes and some very large overhangs. Most routes we have done have a few stainless 3” bolts where needed and bolt anchors with rap biners. No double ropes needed! The routes are either walk off, or can be rapelled with a single rope. We couldn’t resist putting up a three pitch sport route though, C Legs, which turns out to be a phenomenal and sustained route. Read the rest of the info here, but for the best chance at success, download the topos for each route and the interactive map for the approach to your phone before leaving home.

The Rock:
Very large grained granite (pegmatite?), typically consisting of 0.5-3” quartz and feldspar crystals. This results in surprisingly solid, highly textured, knobby faces with irregular cracks. The rock lacks the sort of grain that creates the nice predictable features typical of finer grained granite. The upper middle-right area of the cliff does have a large fine grained intrusion with attractive looking rock, but it doesn’t tend to have any cracks or features to climb. Surprisingly difficult and runout. The main areas are quite interesting, generally protectable, and varied.

The Weather:
C Bluff is generally 5-10F degrees colder than Conway NH. Because it faces due south, the sun shines but a west wind really rips over the pond and funnels through the valley at the foot of the bluff. Bugs are on par with most of New England, mosquitoes not so bad, but flies and ticks can be thick. Climbing before or after the leaves are out is recommended. I wouldn’t go there if the forecast is warmer than 80F.

Wildlife Refuge:
C Bluff is on the east end of the Lake Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge. It is home to several small rare plants, birds, and of course the peregrine falcon. The peregrines roost on a disconnected portion of the cliff, located to the west. The only route that may be too close (within ¼ mile) would be The High C’s. We did climb it in the summer and were not harassed by the birds. Either way, these birds need to be left alone until late August. You know the drill. Check out the state summary.

Access:
The cliff and pond are most likely owned by logging companies. Typically these companies allow access for recreation, including climbing, but do not permit such things as camping, fires, or obstructing logging equipment. The area also falls within the Wildlife Refuge, which also allows access for recreation. On the drive in, before the gate, there is currently much logging activity so watch for trucks and machinery. To preserve access, please tread lightly. This is private land and an important state ecological area.