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G-Spot (The Spot) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in G-Spot (The Spot)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Baiting Bambi (The Old In-and-Out) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bellybutton Window S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bye Bye Beep S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cat and Mouse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cocksure S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Everybody’s Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Flakin' S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Glamour Junkie (in Hollywood Bowl) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Knowledge Enema T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	March of Saints T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Melrose Place (In Hollywood Bowl) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Moment of Silence S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Mr. T's Wild Ride S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Parade S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Percussion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Phat Tuesday S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pimp My Rack (in Holywood Bowl) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Safetry is My Middle Name (No Call Waiting) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Scottish TR WI3+ M3-4 PG13
	She's Got a Dripping Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Slice and Dice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Teenage Burnout S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Temptation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Totally Industrial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tradasaurus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Twinkle-Toes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Where the Sun Don't Shine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Whiskey and a Headlamp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	You're so Hollywood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	188 ft	57 m
GPS:	44.80078, -63.14536 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Nathan Benjamin on Jun 22, 2016 · Updates
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Description

The Spot is primarily sport climbing, although there are a few traditional routes. The cliff has several tiers that can be reached by climbing or by hiking to the NW end of the cliff and doing some significant bush whacking and path finding.

The climbs at The Spot (formerly known as the G Spot) tend to be of moderate or easy difficulty making it a relatively good place to begin lead climbing in NS.

That said, if you're new, the local ethic is to leave no trace. This includes not spray painting the rocks or tossing cigarette butts around. You'd think that would be obvious, but here we are.

Getting There

From Halifax, take Highway 7 or 107 to Musquodoboit Harbor. Pass though town and left onto Highway 357. Then turn right at Park Road and park in the main lot. Walk 600m north, past the apple trees, the bridge, and the lovely view. Just before the information sign you'll see a gate on the left and a trail leading past a Private Property sign on the right.

Take the trail to the right, which will cross a bridge and curve to the left and pass a pond on the right. This logging trail runs parallel to the main rail trail. Stay on the trail for ~5 mins. Past a couple of wet spots on the trail (which can be completely flooded in spring) you should see a narrow path on your right marked by a short rock cairn.

Head down this path and break left on a narrower uphill trail opposite the hunting blind. The trail will then fork and take you to 1 of three different parts of the crag: Cat & Mouse on the right, Totally Industrial / Leave it to Beaver (and the sign in box) in the middle, or off to the left will take you over to Flakin' and beyond.

Hollywood Bowl

Hollywood bowl is a ledge located mid way along the cliff at The Spot, and has six established climbs. The ledge is accessible by climbing routes between The Old In And Out, formally known as Baiting Bambi 5.8, and You're so Hollywood 5.10b. If accessed by You're so Hollywood bail left at the roof and use the tree to belay a follower.

This ledge has some of the most interesting climbing at the crag. Slab climbers in particular may enjoy a visit.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at G-Spot (The Spot)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 16 ● Bye Bye Beep Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Baiting Bambi (The Old In-and-Out) Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Tradasaurus Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 9 ● Twinkle-Toes Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 12 ● Teenage Burnout Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Flakin' Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Mr. T's Wild Ride Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● You're so Hollywood Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● Cat and Mouse Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 7 ● Parade Sport