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Sperone Degli Gnomi Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 3,600 ft | 1,097 m |
| GPS: |
46.25636, 9.65318 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 2,349 total · 22/month | |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Apr 19, 2016 | |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
A modest little gnome's spur nestled in the dinosaurs' bastion.
This crag is mostly known for its popular multi pitch route, Tunnel Diagonale, but also is host to a couple of other multi pitch venues and a couple of fierce shorter routes. Grades range from the four pitch Tunnel Diagonale at 5b and Spigolo Dell'Okone at 5b as well as several much harder routes in the 7 range. There's around 6 routes total at this venue.
A short hike above the "Bidè della Contessa" (wide spot in the creek with the large boulder for diving) on a fairly obvious trail along with a moderate route to become familiar with the rock in the valley contribute to its popularity.
Typical of many crags in Val di Mello, a small rack of gear (at a minimum) is prudent. There's little in the way of fixed gear.
The base of the crag is a cool, shady location hidden by large beech trees and the summit pitches afford a nice view of the valley.
Southeast exposure at around 1100 meters.
This crag is mostly known for its popular multi pitch route, Tunnel Diagonale, but also is host to a couple of other multi pitch venues and a couple of fierce shorter routes. Grades range from the four pitch Tunnel Diagonale at 5b and Spigolo Dell'Okone at 5b as well as several much harder routes in the 7 range. There's around 6 routes total at this venue.
A short hike above the "Bidè della Contessa" (wide spot in the creek with the large boulder for diving) on a fairly obvious trail along with a moderate route to become familiar with the rock in the valley contribute to its popularity.
Typical of many crags in Val di Mello, a small rack of gear (at a minimum) is prudent. There's little in the way of fixed gear.
The base of the crag is a cool, shady location hidden by large beech trees and the summit pitches afford a nice view of the valley.
Southeast exposure at around 1100 meters.
Getting There
From the main parking lot past San Martino Valmasino, hike past Gatto Rossa on the main, wide trail following the river. At the wide, deep spot in the river (Bidè della Contessa), look up and note the formation above to the north (and the big curving overhang of Dimore to the right).
On the main trail at the diving board/pool in the river, a climber's trail leads up through the woods leading both to Sperone Degli Gnomi as well as above/behind Dimore to Metamorfosi. On this trail, stay left at the main forks to arrive at the Gnomi.
If you hike and arrive at cluster of refugios (Mello and Luna Nascente), you’ve gone past the up track to the crag.
On the main trail at the diving board/pool in the river, a climber's trail leads up through the woods leading both to Sperone Degli Gnomi as well as above/behind Dimore to Metamorfosi. On this trail, stay left at the main forks to arrive at the Gnomi.
If you hike and arrive at cluster of refugios (Mello and Luna Nascente), you’ve gone past the up track to the crag.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sperone Degli Gnomi
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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