Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 480 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Ivan Guerini, Paul Belgeri, Massimo Piattoli, Bruno Borsi 11 April 1976|
|Page Views:||689 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Apr 20, 2016|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
One of the first technical climbing routes opened in Val di Mello established in 1976.
Starts in a right-facing dihedral crack in the woods and finishes on an open slab.
Pitch 1: climb up initial slab following two paralleling right slanting fingerish seams below the initial right facing corner. Follow corner. Belay after 40 meters at a fixed anchor (anchor for route “Savonarola 7a/b” coming straight up from below). 5a, couple of fixed pins, 40m.
Pitch 2: climb vertical bit, then continue up under roofy corner until corner end. Belay at end of corner (tree and possibly piton belay anchor). 5a, 40m.
Pitch 3: move left to open slab to ledge then continue up slab. Belay from trees. 5b, 40m.
Pitch 4: easy rally up narrow slab through trees to top of formation. 15m, 3a.
From the top, head to the left and follow a nice trail back down through the woods to the base of the route.