Type: Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 4 pitches
FA: Ivan Guerini, Paul Belgeri, Massimo Piattoli, Bruno Borsi 11 April 1976
Page Views: 1,514 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 20, 2016
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

A popular short multi pitch outing with a minimal approach and modest grade. Good, fun climbing as well helps account for this route's popularity.

One of the first technical climbing routes opened in Val di Mello established in 1976.

Starts in a right-facing dihedral crack in the woods and finishes on an open slab.

Pitch 1: climb up initial slab following two paralleling right slanting fingerish seams below the initial right facing corner. Follow corner. Belay after 40 meters at a fixed anchor (anchor for route “Savonarola 7a/b” coming straight up from below). 5a, couple of fixed pins, 40m.

Pitch 2: climb vertical bit, then continue up under roofy corner until corner end. Belay at end of corner (tree and possibly piton belay anchor). 5a, 40m.

Pitch 3: move left to open slab to ledge then continue up slab. Belay from trees. 5b, 40m.

Pitch 4: easy rally up narrow slab through trees to top of formation. 15m, 3a.

From the top, head to the left and follow a nice trail back down through the woods to the base of the route.

Location Suggest change

Upon arrival at/near the base of the crag, head to the far left side to a flat staging area under a large beech tree. The right slanting crack/dihedral first pitch is viewable. The start of the route is at two thin fingerish right slanting cracks on a slab below the open right facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

A single set of cams from 1 TCU, Camalot 1, 2 and 3 (or equivalent) and a sprinkling of nuts should prove adequate.

There's a smattering of fixed pro and a few trees for slings. Suggest taking 6 or more shoulder length slings and a few quickdraws.