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Routes in Neuffener Parkplatzfels

Alter Riss (Fels 2) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Des Kletters Traum: Ein Baum (Fels 2) S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eddies Wampe (Fels 2) S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kantenzwang (Fels 3) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Katerkiller S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pfeilerris S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Razia (Fels 3) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vernunft Ohne Ende S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Verschneidung S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Elevation: 2,270 ft
GPS: 48.552, 9.403 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 464 total · 15/month
Shared By: Climb Germany on Apr 2, 2016
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

Named the "Neuffener Parkplatzfels" (Neuffen Parking lot crag), these 3 crags (10-20 meters high) sit on the eastern side of Burg Hohenneuffen (a small castle in the town of Neuffen).

There are many easy and moderate routes for beginners and a few trad routes. It's popular with people from Stuttgart due to its proximity (~30-40min drive) and above all it's 2 minute approach. Therefore it is well maintained and fairly well bolted.

The approach to Crags 1 and 3 (you cant get directly to 2 from the parking) are steep and downhill. The approach to 3 is the worse of the two and neither are recommended with kids.

The base of all 3 crags is pretty crappy. Narrow path and then a steepish drop. So its a bit awkward moving around or with several people. Definitely not good for small kids.

Getting There

GPS: 48.555894, 9.403545 (of parking lot)

Coming from Stuttgart, take the A8 southeast (towards Munich) and exit onto the B465 in Kirchheim unter Teck. Take exit 57-Kirchheim unter Teck-Ost.

Drive south on the 465 towards the village of Owen. Once there, take L1210 westerwards (also Beurenerstrasse) towards Beuren and head south on Weilersteige (K1262) to Erkenbrechtsweiler. Once you reach the town, head west on the K1244 towards "Hohenneuffen" (the castle).

As the asphalt ends, there's a parking lot on the left hand side. Bear to your left at the parking lot (dont go straight ahead). Park near the forest area. From parking, there are two ways to get there, the further left path which has a hiking sign at its junction, will take you downhill to crag 3. If you walk into the woods though, ou'll see a beaten path which goes to crag 1. It's 2min to the crags either way.

The path is uneven and a bit steep. Use approach shoes not belay flip flops. A walking stick or hiking pole wouldn't be a bad idea. either.

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