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Routes in Champney Falls

Falls, The TR WI3+
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Elevation: 1,267 ft
GPS: 43.99, -71.299 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,014 total · 65/month
Shared By: Tom Sherman on Jan 25, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

A short, steep TR crag that reliably holds good ice. A gorge of ~25' wide, and around ~25-40' tall has a continuous flow of ice over the southern side. The floor consists of running water and will need to freeze before early season climbing.

Access to establish TR's is one of two choices.From the trail hiking in, just before the frozen flow from a brook, you can break right and hike around, or scramble up the 8' frozen bulge. An obvious trail along an old wire fence leads to the top. The top can also be accessed from the snowy ramp at the back of the gorge. Tree anchors require 20-50' extensions if you'd like to extend over the lip. Plan accordingly for a multi-leg anchor. The very middle line is best setup by an ice screw anchor (this is just before the 10' jump in the cliff's height, before the longer routes towards the back).

The area can accommodate 6-8 very tightly spaced lines, but as the gorge is not very wide, falling ice from as many parties is a real concern. When in, there are the potential for climbing on some thinner lines at the beginning of the gorge, or mixed climbing on the north side.

It is rare to be alone at this venue, and even if you're not accompanied by other climbing parties, you'll surely see some hikers stopping in to photograph the flows.

Getting There

38 minutes from Lincoln, or 17 minutes from Conway, the Champney Falls trailhead is in the middle of the Kancamagus Highway. Parking can fill up because many enjoyable hikes are accessed from this trailhead as well. The approach is a good 45min - 1hr with elevation gains. Fortunately the trail is almost always well packed down. The hike in is just enough to detract some of the crowds, but expect to see others.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Champney Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 10
The Falls
TR, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Falls
 10
WI3+ TR, Ice
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