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Elevation: 8,000 ft 2,438 m
GPS: 19.92027, -99.48962
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,458 total · 223/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Jan 10, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

Description Suggest change

This amazing sport climbing area is located in a beautiful oak forest about a 2 hour drive north west of Mexico City. There are 150 or more sport routes here from 5.5 to 5.14. The main attraction is 'El Huevo', an enormous egg shaped monolith with climbing on all sides. The towering and steep north facing side has awesome rock quality and hosts the sectors 'Dia de Campo' and '¡Ay Nanita!'. There are many other great sectors surrounding as well, with interesting and unique cobble climbing. The rock is volcanic; a mixture of consolidated ash and cobbles. It's reminiscent of Maple Canyon at times, a hint of Smith Rock, and also a touch of the Flatirons. Each sector has a bit of unique flavor.  

The area is a maintained park and as of Dec 2025, the user fee was 50 pesos/day/person (about $2.50USD/person/day) make sure to bring cash!  On the weekends you can expect to find a good number of climbers here - largely traveling from Mexico City and surrounding areas - but you'll also find families, locals and those just coming to watch the action. The vibes are always great.

You can camp at the parking area at the end of the road that is within mere feet of the climbs. There are picnic tables with roofs and bathrooms with flush toilets (bring your own TP and drinking water). There are also plenty of options for Air BnB or Hotels in Jilotepec. I would recommend staying as close to the crag as possible - navigating the roads around Jilo can be arduous at times with random closures and a seemingly endless number of aggressive speed bumps.

The Jilotepec climbing area (aka Peñas de Dexcani Alto) is covered on pages 113-127 of the Mexican Climbing Guide Center-South (March 2013).

Getting There Suggest change

The crags are located roughly 10km southeast from the city of Jilotepec in the State of Mexico.

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jilotepec

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
La Prima de Nancy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
La Lateral
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Beluga
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Unknown Route
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Cetaceos
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
El Ma'monito
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Sal de Mi
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
El Equilibrista
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
El Motociclista en la Esfera de…
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Gula
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
La Mujer Peluda
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Estrella de Petalos
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
La Contorsionista
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
El Chaneque
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Prima de Nancy 01 - Comite de Bienve…
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
La Lateral 13 - Sector Lunar
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Beluga 16 - Sector Local
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Unknown Route 16 - Sector Local
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cetaceos 16 - Sector Local
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
El Ma'monito 14 - El Circo
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Sal de Mi 15 - Sal de Mi
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
El Equilibrista 14 - El Circo
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
El Motociclista en la Esfer… 14 - El Circo
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gula 05 - Frenesi
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
La Mujer Peluda 14 - El Circo
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Estrella de Petalos 15 - Sal de Mi
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
La Contorsionista 14 - El Circo
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
El Chaneque 04 - ¡Ay Nanita!
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jilotepec »

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