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Elevation: 8,000 ft 2,438 m
GPS: 19.92027, -99.48962
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,845 total · 247/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Jan 10, 2016
Admins: Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

Description Suggest change

This amazing sport climbing area is located in a beautiful oak forest about a 1.5 hour drive north of Mexico City. There are 150 or more sport routes here from 5.5 to 5.14.

The rock is volcanic; a mixture of consolidated ash and cobbles. It's a little bit like Maple Canyon near Salt Lake City, Utah.

The Jilotepec climbing area (aka Peñas de Dexcani Alto) is covered on pages 113-127 of the Mexican Climbing Guide Center-South (March 2013).

The area is a park and as of 12-2018, the user fee was 25 pesos/day/person (about $1.25US/person/day).

As of 12-2018, you can camp at the parking area at the end of the road that is within mere feet of the climbs. There are picnic tables with roofs and bathrooms with flush toilets (bring your own TP and drinking water).

Las Carretas Hotel in Jilotepec (about $30US/night in 01-2016) is clean and like a Super 8 Motel. It's within easy commuting distance to the crags.

Getting There Suggest change

The crags are located roughly 10km southeast from the city of Jilotepec in the State of Mexico.

51 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jilotepec

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
La Prima de Nancy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
La Lateral
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Beluga
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Unknown Route
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Cetaceos
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
El Ma'monito
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Sal de Mi
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
El Equilibrista
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
El Motociclista en la Esfera de…
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Gula
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Estrella de Petalos
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
La Mujer Peluda
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
La Contorsionista
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
El Chaneque
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Prima de Nancy 01 - Comite de Bienve…
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
La Lateral 13 - Sector Lunar
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Beluga 16 - Sector Local
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Unknown Route 16 - Sector Local
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cetaceos 16 - Sector Local
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
El Ma'monito 14 - El Circo
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Sal de Mi 15 - Sal de Mi
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
El Equilibrista 14 - El Circo
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
El Motociclista en la Esfer… 14 - El Circo
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gula 05 - Frenesi
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Estrella de Petalos 15 - Sal de Mi
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
La Mujer Peluda 14 - El Circo
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
La Contorsionista 14 - El Circo
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
El Chaneque 04 - ¡Ay Nanita!
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jilotepec »

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