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Routes in Fern Gulley

Back to the Feature S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blazing Saddle Sores S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Captain Hooks V6 7A
Chasing Shadows V4 6B
Leftovers, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Never Will I Ever V2 5+
Schmee V3 6A
Spice is Right, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tinkerbell V5 6C
Elevation: 2,041 ft
GPS: 35.876, -93.127 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,868 total, 76/month
Shared By: Andrew Roepke on Dec 7, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

Description

A tucked away little gulley with a very rainforest like feel. A few mixed/trad routes were established here in 1994. This area is most famous for the Strickland/Mentin Dyno. You pass through this area to get to New Font. The wall left of the dihedral stays in the shade all day, and tends to stay damp. But the wall right of the dihedral, with the bolted routes, gets morning sun until around noon. Neverland is a small corridor underneath the massive Fern Gully boulder, a small collection of boulder problems.

Getting There

Just west of Fountain Red is a faint logging road heading north-west, follow this to the road closed sign and park. Follow the closed logging road for a little while and look for a cairn to the left, marking the faint trail up to Fern Gulley. An alternate approach is to follow the invasion cliff line climber's right, passing the land of the little people, and continuing to Fern Gulley. Or, park at the Off the Rails parking, continue following that logging road until you see a cairn to the left, then follow red trail markers until you reach the deproach.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Gulley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Spice is Right
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Feature
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Spice is Right 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Back to the Feature 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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