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North Basin Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 02. North Basin

L › R R › L A › Z

	"S" Crack (mid-cliff start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Big Corner Complete, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13
	Bill's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Elbow Balcony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hanta Yo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	North Basin Headwall Route ( aka The Nose ? ) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Elevation:	3,053 ft	931 m
GPS:	45.92772, -68.90673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	10,636 total · 86/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Oct 17, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Access Issue: Consult with Park Rangers on climbing policy in such out-of-the-way areas Details

Katahdin and Fixed Gear

An internet review of BSP climbing rules clearly state that “bolt intensive routes are not permitted”, and that “all gear must be removed except in emergency situations” (The second "quote" may not be exact. The two quotes come from two slightly different documents on the Katahdin / Baxter State Park website.)

When Percival Baxter donated this land to the people of Maine he specifically wished it to remain wild. While I could not find anything in writing specifically banning any and all bolts, except for the above "all gear must be removed", which certainly seems to cover it! Thus both the BSP climbing rules and the local climbing culture at least seriously frown on bolts being used on Katahdin. Please respect this and help keep this wonderfully alpine area open for climbing.

Thanks !

Description

North Basin is located about 1 mile north of Chimney Pond, to the north of the Hamlin Ridge. Home to the famous and striking Taber wall, routes in and around this area range from mostly scrambling to alpine 5.10.

Getting There

Either hike in from Roaring Brook parking/campground on the Chimney Pond Trail to the North Basin Cut-Off trail to the North Basin trail which ends at an viewpoint called "Blueberry Knoll". (The GPS co-ordinates are "set" for the approx. location of Blueberry Knowl.)

If lucky enough to "score" a campsite at Chimney Pond Campground, hike over on the North Basin trail.

From Blueberry knoll, look towards the wall and a follow a set of carins. If you don't lose the path, the approach to the wall is actually pretty easy and requires minimal bushwacking and mostly rock hopping. Go around the right side of the pond when you get to it, and keep following the carins. Right at the end you have to do a little shwacking to get up the base of the cliff.