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Areas in Eastern Big Horns

Bear Gulch 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Big Willow Crag and Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Black Flume 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Bosin Rock 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Burgess Picnic Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Crazy Woman Crags 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Florence Canyon boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Highway 14 Pinnacles 15 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 18
Highway 14a Pinnacles 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 5
Highway 14a boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Highway 16 granite 1 / 0 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Lamburger Rock 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Little Tongue River Crags 6 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
North Beaver Creek Canyon aka Paradise Valley 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4
Piney Creek Canyon 4 / 72 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 75
Steamboat Point 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Tongue River Canyon 36 / 44 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 81
Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 44.792, -106.963 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 56,599 total, 1,949/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 19, 2015 with updates
Admins: Mike Snyder

Description

Sheridan is the largest town along the eastern side of the Big Horn mountains. It is home to most of the area's few local climbers, and the primary bastion of civilization for any climbers passing through the area. The town itself offers a decent array of amenities: gas, lodging, groceries, a few good restaurants and a couple of quality breweries. More importantly, it offers access to a myriad of quality crags nestled along the foothills of the eastern Big Horns. Bighorn Dolomite (like Ten Sleep and the Lander crags) is the predominant stone in these parts, but there are also a number of granite areas that have been developed in recent years. None of the crags around Sheridan offer the concentration of routes that can be found in some of the state's more celebrated venues, but there are an abundance of quality lines throughout the grade spectrum to be found. What these crags do offer plenty of is scenery (every area around here has a great setting) and solitude (you won't wait in line for the classics here). Furthermore, there are few walls in the area that require more than 15-20 minutes of hiking.

Most of these crags are accessed via Highway 14 (and Highway 14a which branches off of 14), a paved highway (open all year) that crosses the northern end of the Big Horns. This offers amazing access to a lot of high country, and a plethora of crags. Redgrade Road is a graded gravel Forest Service road that accesses a number of other zones.

Getting There

Sheridan is in the north central part of Wyoming, about 25 miles south of Montana. It is just east of the Big Horn Mountains. Interstate 90 passes through town. It is about:
1.5 hrs from Ten Sleep Canyon
2 hrs from Billings
2 hrs from Casper
2.5 hrs from the Devils Tower
3 hrs from Cody
4 hrs from Lander
4 hrs from Bozeman
4.5 hrs from Laramie

259 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eastern Big Horns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
DJs
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edwards Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bird
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chosspector's Choice Nugs
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vice Gripped
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hera
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Prospects of Paid Time Off
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sulphur queen
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Knight
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Tall for Twomey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Second Wind
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Star Ariel
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Nemo
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Star tiger
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bighorn Roundup
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
DJs Tongue River Canyon > Big Bird Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Edwards Crack Tongue River Canyon > Big Bird Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Big Bird Tongue River Canyon > Big Bird Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chosspector's Choice Nugs Piney Creek Canyon > Trailside Wall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Vice Gripped Piney Creek Canyon > Second Wind Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hera Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Prospects of Paid Time Off Piney Creek Canyon > Trailside Wall 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Sulphur queen Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
White Knight Tongue River Canyon > Knight 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Too Tall for Twomey Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Second Wind Piney Creek Canyon > Second Wind Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Star Ariel Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Little Nemo Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Star tiger Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Bighorn Roundup Crazy Woman Crags > Crazy Woman Cliff 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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Photos

Is anyone interested in trad or sport climbing in the eastern big horns?
Developing a new multipitch granite area an hr from sher
idan.Bold Text Apr 8, 2017
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY


Rock Climbs of the Eastern Big Horns Second Edition is available at many of the local retailers throughout the region. Locally, look for it at Back Country Bicycles, Sport Stop, and Sheridan Stationery in Sheridan. Sports Lure in Buffalo. The Ten Sleep Brewery, Dirty Sally's, and the Rock Ranch in Ten Sleep.

If you want to go straight to the source and most directly compensate the effort involved in producing this, buy it from me! I have them on Amazon, or you can PM me here and I will mail a copy. May 31, 2016

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