Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 44.792, -106.963 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 190,512 total · 3,104/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 19, 2015 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

Sheridan is the largest town along the eastern side of the Big Horn mountains. It is home to most of the area's few local climbers, and the primary bastion of civilization for any climbers passing through the area. The town itself offers a decent array of amenities: gas, lodging, groceries, a few good restaurants and a couple of quality breweries. More importantly, it offers access to a myriad of quality crags nestled along the foothills of the eastern Big Horns. Bighorn Dolomite (like Ten Sleep and the Lander crags) is the predominant stone in these parts, but there are also a number of granite areas that have been developed in recent years. None of the crags around Sheridan offer the concentration of routes that can be found in some of the state's more celebrated venues, but there are an abundance of quality lines throughout the grade spectrum to be found. What these crags do offer plenty of is scenery (every area around here has a great setting) and solitude (you won't wait in line for the classics here). Furthermore, there are few walls in the area that require more than 15-20 minutes of hiking.

Most of these crags are accessed via Highway 14 (and Highway 14a which branches off of 14), a paved highway (open all year) that crosses the northern end of the Big Horns. This offers amazing access to a lot of high country, and a plethora of crags. Redgrade Road is a graded gravel Forest Service road that accesses a number of other zones.

Getting There

Sheridan is in the north central part of Wyoming, about 25 miles south of Montana. It is just east of the Big Horn Mountains. Interstate 90 passes through town. It is about:
1.5 hrs from Ten Sleep Canyon
2 hrs from Billings
2 hrs from Casper
2.5 hrs from the Devils Tower
3 hrs from Cody
4 hrs from Lander
4 hrs from Bozeman
4.5 hrs from Laramie

284 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Eastern Big Horns Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Eastern Big Horns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Edwards Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Big Bird
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 22
Chosspector's Choice Nugs
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Vice Gripped
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
Hera
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 19
A Drinking Man's Game
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Sulphur Queen
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
White Knight
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Star Ariel
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Second Wind
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
No Way Out (AKA Rick's Route)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Sweet Cream and Dopamine
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Dementia
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Bighorn Roundup
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
The Kraken
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Edwards Crack Tongue River Ca… > Big Bird Area
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Big Bird Tongue River Ca… > Big Bird Area
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chosspector's Choice Nugs Piney Creek Canyon > Trailside Wall
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Vice Gripped Piney Creek Canyon > Second Wind Wall
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hera Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 24
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
A Drinking Man's Game Crazy Woman Crags > Crazy Woman Cliff
 19
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sulphur Queen Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
White Knight Tongue River Ca… > Knight
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Star Ariel Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Second Wind Piney Creek Canyon > Second Wind Wall
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
No Way Out (AKA Rick's Route) Crazy Woman Crags > Crazy Woman Cliff
 15
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sweet Cream and Dopamine Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dementia Crazy Woman Crags > Crazy Woman Cliff
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bighorn Roundup Crazy Woman Crags > Crazy Woman Cliff
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Kraken Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eastern Big Horns »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos