Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 44.792, -106.963 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,890 total · 1,981/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 19, 2015 with updates from Emerson Takahashi
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg
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Description

Sheridan is the largest town along the eastern side of the Big Horn mountains. It is home to most of the area's few local climbers, and the primary bastion of civilization for any climbers passing through the area. The town itself offers a decent array of amenities: gas, lodging, groceries, a few good restaurants and a couple of quality breweries. More importantly, it offers access to a myriad of quality crags nestled along the foothills of the eastern Big Horns. Bighorn Dolomite (like Ten Sleep and the Lander crags) is the predominant stone in these parts, but there are also a number of granite areas that have been developed in recent years. None of the crags around Sheridan offer the concentration of routes that can be found in some of the state's more celebrated venues, but there are an abundance of quality lines throughout the grade spectrum to be found. What these crags do offer plenty of is scenery (every area around here has a great setting) and solitude (you won't wait in line for the classics here). Furthermore, there are few walls in the area that require more than 15-20 minutes of hiking.

Most of these crags are accessed via Highway 14 (and Highway 14a which branches off of 14), a paved highway (open all year) that crosses the northern end of the Big Horns. This offers amazing access to a lot of high country, and a plethora of crags. Redgrade Road is a graded gravel Forest Service road that accesses a number of other zones.

Getting There

Sheridan is in the north central part of Wyoming, about 25 miles south of Montana. It is just east of the Big Horn Mountains. Interstate 90 passes through town. It is about:
1.5 hrs from Ten Sleep Canyon
2 hrs from Billings
2 hrs from Casper
2.5 hrs from the Devils Tower
3 hrs from Cody
4 hrs from Lander
4 hrs from Bozeman
4.5 hrs from Laramie

266 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eastern Big Horns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Edwards Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Big Bird
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 17
Chosspector's Choice Nugs
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Vice Gripped
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Hera
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Prospects of Paid Time Off
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 14
Sulphur Queen
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
White Knight
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Second Wind
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Shackling the Masses with Drasti…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Star Ariel
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Tanner's Perpetual Motion Machine
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Star Tiger
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Bighorn Roundup
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
The Kraken
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Edwards Crack Tongue River Ca… > Big Bird Area
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Big Bird Tongue River Ca… > Big Bird Area
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chosspector's Choice Nugs Piney Creek Canyon > Trailside Wall
 17
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Vice Gripped Piney Creek Canyon > Second Wind Wall
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hera Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 15
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Prospects of Paid Time Off Piney Creek Canyon > Trailside Wall
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Sulphur Queen Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 14
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
White Knight Tongue River Ca… > Knight
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Second Wind Piney Creek Canyon > Second Wind Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shackling the Masses with D… Tongue River Ca… > Happy Trails
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Star Ariel Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tanner's Perpetual Motion M… Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Star Tiger Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Bighorn Roundup Crazy Woman Crags > Crazy Woman Cliff
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Kraken Piney Creek Canyon > Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eastern Big Horns »

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Photos

Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ


Rock Climbs of the Eastern Big Horns Second Edition is available at many of the local retailers throughout the region. Locally, look for it at Back Country Bicycles, Sport Stop, and Sheridan Stationery in Sheridan. Sports Lure in Buffalo. The Ten Sleep Brewery, Dirty Sally's, and the Rock Ranch in Ten Sleep.

If you want to go straight to the source and most directly compensate the effort involved in producing this, buy it from me! I have them on Amazon, or you can PM me here and I will mail a copy. May 31, 2016
Is anyone interested in trad or sport climbing in the eastern big horns?
Developing a new multipitch granite area an hr from sher
idan.Bold Text Apr 8, 2017