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Areas in Piney Creek Canyon

Second Wind Wall 2 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Shipyard, The 1 / 33 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Trailside Wall 1 / 18 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Description

This area has matured into the premier sport crag of the Eastern Big Horns for those seeking the 5.10-5.12 grade range. It couples easy access and a plethora of excellent routes with a wide variety of styles. The Trailside Wall gets great evening shade to escape summertime heat, and offers a pleasant, creek-side ambiance. Parts of the Second Wind Wall (Refrigerator Chimney alcove) and the Shipyard offer decent morning shade (until about 1pm) throughout the summer.

There are walls lining both sides of the creek, with the only developed walls being adjacent to the trail (and up the hill) just past the diversion dam. The Trailside Wall is the first crag you come to, and is only a relatively flat 10 minute walk from the car. The Second Wind Wall is about 5 minutes up the hill above Trailside. The Shipyard is further up the hill on a good path and is roughly 30 minutes from the car.

CAMPING INFO!

Currently, there are limited options in Story for camping. There is no FS or BLM campground or land thats easy to camp on. Wagon Box RV Park has campsites and a kind owner who is very welcoming to climbers!! It's expensive compared to other areas like Ten Sleep, but this may change.

WAGON BOX RV PARK

Campsites by the river $20 (25% discount for climbers!!)
Flush Toilets
Call ahead or stop in
108 N Piney Road
307-683-2261
Harry, the owner, is a nice guy and longtime local and would love to see some climbers passing through.

Getting There

Driving Directions:
Drive to the small mountain town of Story, which is about equidistant from both Sheridan and Buffalo. Set your odometer here and follow these directions carefully; it's a bit confusing navigating through Story for the first time.
0 miles: Chuckwagon gas station in Story. Turn right onto 194.
.6 miles: The junction with 340 on the right (large wooden signboard). Continue straight in 194.
2.6 miles: There is a park/playground on the right. 194 makes a 90 degree turn around the park before continuing a short distance to the Fish Hatchery. Instead of following 194 around the 90 degree turn, continue straight ahead onto Thorne Rider Road (graded dirt), which is marked by the green sign-Youth Camp.
3.3 miles: Thorne Rider Road ends in a gate with the sign-Authorized Vehicles Only. Park here.
Approach Directions: Walk past the gate and continue up the relatively flat roadbed until the Forest Service boundary is reached after about 1/2 mile. Shortly after the boundary, the trail passes between the creek on the left and the cliffs on the right. The first routes are found about 100m past the diversion dam on the creek. Hiking time is approximately 10 minutes from your car.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Piney Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 17
Chosspector's Choice Nugs
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
Super Dihedral
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Vice Gripped
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Hera
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Huldra
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Prospects of Paid Time Off
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 12
Sulphur queen
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Too Tall for Twomey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Second Wind
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Star Ariel
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Little Nemo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Tanner's Perpetual Motion Machine
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Star tiger
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
The Bermuda Triangle
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
Super Streak
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chosspector's Choice Nugs Trailside Wall
 17
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Super Dihedral Second Wind Wall
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Vice Gripped Second Wind Wall
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hera Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Huldra Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Prospects of Paid Time Off Trailside Wall
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Sulphur queen Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Too Tall for Twomey Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Second Wind Second Wind Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Star Ariel Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Little Nemo Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tanner's Perpetual Motion M… Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Star tiger Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
The Bermuda Triangle Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Super Streak Second Wind Wall
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Piney Creek Canyon »

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Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for Piney Creek Canyon and nine other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed. Aug 3, 2010
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
This area should be on the short list for any regional climbers. I climbed on the Trailside Wall yesterday for the first time in 8 years and had an absolute blast. Bowman did a great job bolting, cleaning, and picking choice lines. Mar 25, 2012
Jason Todd
Cody, WY
Jason Todd   Cody, WY
Nice addition of the hooks on the well travelled routes! Thanks much for your work Trevor. Jun 4, 2015
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
Love this area, been here 6 or 7 times to climb and always have a good time! Climbs are easy to get to and the scenery is great. Jan 21, 2016
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Not that I plan to anytime soon. Just curious what are the bolting ethics in Wyoming? Curious is all. Thanks! Mar 17, 2016
Jason Todd
Cody, WY
Jason Todd   Cody, WY
For the eastern Bighorns, most local developers have been putting in 3/8 x 3 1/2" 5 piece bolts for pro with 1/2" x long bolts for anchors. Camouflaged hangers have been standard in this area. Rap with power is the norm unless it is easier to do ground up. Mar 17, 2016
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
cool! thanks for the response. Looks like a good area! Apr 8, 2016

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