Elevation: 5,627 ft
GPS: 44.557, -106.935 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68,564 total · 446/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 14, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

This area has matured into the premier sport crag of the Eastern Big Horns for those seeking the 5.10-5.12 grade range. It couples easy access and a plethora of excellent routes with a wide variety of styles. The Trailside Wall gets great evening shade to escape summertime heat, and offers a pleasant, creek-side ambiance. Parts of the Second Wind Wall (Refrigerator Chimney alcove) and the Shipyard offer decent morning shade (until about 1pm) throughout the summer.

There are walls lining both sides of the creek, with the only developed walls being adjacent to the trail (and up the hill) just past the diversion dam. The Trailside Wall is the first crag you come to, and is only a relatively flat 10 minute walk from the car. The Second Wind Wall is about 5 minutes up the hill above Trailside. The Shipyard is further up the hill on a good path and is roughly 30 minutes from the car.

Getting There

Driving Directions:
Drive to the small mountain town of Story, which is about equidistant from both Sheridan and Buffalo. Set your odometer here and follow these directions carefully; it's a bit confusing navigating through Story for the first time.
0 miles: Chuckwagon gas station in Story. Turn right onto 194.
.6 miles: The junction with 340 on the right (large wooden signboard). Continue straight in 194.
2.6 miles: There is a park/playground on the right. 194 makes a 90 degree turn around the park before continuing a short distance to the Fish Hatchery. Instead of following 194 around the 90 degree turn, continue straight ahead onto Thorne Rider Road (graded dirt), which is marked by the green sign-Youth Camp.
3.3 miles: Thorne Rider Road ends in a gate with the sign-Authorized Vehicles Only. Park here.
Approach Directions: Walk past the gate and continue up the relatively flat roadbed until the Forest Service boundary is reached after about 1/2 mile. Shortly after the boundary, the trail passes between the creek on the left and the cliffs on the right. The first routes are found about 100m past the diversion dam on the creek. Hiking time is approximately 10 minutes from your car.

Camping

Currently, there are limited options in Story for camping. There is no FS or BLM campground or land thats easy to camp on. Wagon Box RV Park has campsites and a kind owner who is very welcoming to climbers!! It's expensive compared to other areas like Ten Sleep, but this may change.

WAGON BOX RV PARK

Campsites by the river $20 (25% discount for climbers!!)
Flush Toilets
Call ahead or stop in
108 N Piney Road
307-683-2261
Harry, the owner, is a nice guy and longtime local and would love to see some climbers passing through.

85 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Piney Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 22
Chosspector's Choice Nugs
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Vice Gripped
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
Hera
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Sulphur Queen
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Thin to Win
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Prospects of Paid Time Off
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Star Ariel
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Second Wind
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Tanner's Perpetual Motion Machine
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Cyclops
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Sweet Cream and Dopamine
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Star Tiger
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
The Kraken
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 4
The Bermuda Triangle
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 6
Super Streak
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chosspector's Choice Nugs Trailside Wall
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Vice Gripped Second Wind Wall
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hera Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 24
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sulphur Queen Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Thin to Win Shipyard > 7. Back Alley
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Prospects of Paid Time Off Trailside Wall
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Star Ariel Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Second Wind Second Wind Wall
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tanner's Perpetual Motion M… Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cyclops Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sweet Cream and Dopamine Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Star Tiger Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
The Kraken Shipyard > 3. Mytho Wall
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Bermuda Triangle Shipyard > 4. Bermuda Triangle
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Super Streak Second Wind Wall
 6
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
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