Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 44.166, -106.915 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,042 total · 163/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 7, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Access Issue: Open public lands (Forest Service). Respect adjacent landowners. Details

Description

Five separate reefs of Bighorn Dolomite rising above high-country meadows just south of Highway 16 in the southern Bighorns. Only 3 of the cliffs have developed climbing (the other 2 don't have nearly the quality or potential). The Crazy Woman Cliff and the TLC Wall both hold many excellent sport routes from 5.10-5.13 with lots of beautifully featured steep terrain remenisicent of Tensleep Canyon. Dirt roads off of the highway deposit one within minutes of the walls, making this a slackers delight. Good undeveloped camping can be found throughout the area, but be discreet and pick up after yourself! Please read the above comments on access concerns before visiting the area and be especially conscientious while out here.

The cliffs face SW and get lots of sun, but the area is at a high altitude and generally remains cool and pleasant in the summer. During the hottest months, mornings and evenings are still great, and shady spots along the crags can be found (the left side of Crazy Woman Cliff being prime).

These cliffs saw there first routes back in '88 by the super motivated Alex Catlin, who was living in Buffalo for a summer. He left many impressive testpieces behind. Ken Trout, along with his wife and friends, spearheaded the second round of activity in 1992 and left many classic sport lines behind them. Other Wyoming locals have passed through and left their mark. This is now Buffalo's premier venue!

Getting There

They cliffs are a couple miles south of Highway 16 (between Buffalo and Tensleep over the Bighorn Mountains) and easily visible from the Highway. When coming from Buffalo, they are about 25 miles out (well before Powder River Pass). From Highway 16, the cliffs are approached via secondary dirt roads that are generally in good condition and passable for all vehicles. Specific approach directions are given for each individual cliff. Driving time from Buffalo is around 45 minutes. Another perk of the area is that these approach roads deposit you very close to the cliffs, keeping hiking time to 5 minutes or less. Specific driving directions will be detailed for each wall in their descriptions.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crazy Woman Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Cake and Ice Cream
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Campground Host
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Bury the Hatchet
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Sharp Shooter
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
the Burden of Doubt
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
A Drinking Man's Game
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 3
Frizzle Fry
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Shepherd's Delight
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
No Way Out (AKA Rick's Route)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Bighorn Roundup
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Dementia
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Total Eclipse of the Heart
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cake and Ice Cream Crazy Woman Cliff
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Campground Host Crazy Woman Cliff
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bury the Hatchet Crazy Woman Cliff
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sharp Shooter Crazy Woman Cliff
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
the Burden of Doubt Crazy Woman Cliff
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
A Drinking Man's Game Crazy Woman Cliff
 24
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Frizzle Fry Crazy Woman Cliff
 3
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Shepherd's Delight Crazy Woman Cliff
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
No Way Out (AKA Rick's Route) Crazy Woman Cliff
 20
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bighorn Roundup Crazy Woman Cliff
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dementia Crazy Woman Cliff
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Total Eclipse of the Heart Crazy Woman Cliff
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Crazy Woman Crags »

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