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Total Eclipse of the Heart
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 7
votes
Routes in Crazy Woman Cliff
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A Drinking Man's Game S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bats in Her Belfry S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bighorn Roundup S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Burden of Doubt, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bury the Hatchet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cabin Fever S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cake and Ice Cream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Campground Host S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cowpoke S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crazy Woman Left S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crazy Woman Right S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Dementia S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Frizzle Fry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hole in the Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Way Out (AKA Rick's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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One Way Out S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Poke in Your Pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poker Face S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Searchers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sharp Shooter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shepherd's Delight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shoot from the Hip (Open Project) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Southern Gentleman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sundance Kid Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Total Eclipse of the Heart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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“42” S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | EC, August 2017 (bolted on August 21, just after Viewing the total solar eclipse) |
| Page Views: | 1,820 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | EChristensen on Aug 23, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Open public lands (Forest Service). Respect adjacent landowners.
Details
The land surrounding the crags is a mix of Forest Service and private inholdings. Several of the minor roads lead to private summer cabins, some of which are quite close to the cliffs.
The main roads are all on public property, but don't drive down anything resembling a driveway or leading to a residence. Maintain a low profile when climbing here. Keep dogs in control or consider not bringing them out here. Camp well away from any cabins, watch your campfire carefully, and pack out all trash! The cliffs and access are all on public land and legit, but the proximity to private holdings requires sensitivity and best behavior. Be good stewards to this special area and we'll all enjoy it for years to come!
The main roads are all on public property, but don't drive down anything resembling a driveway or leading to a residence. Maintain a low profile when climbing here. Keep dogs in control or consider not bringing them out here. Camp well away from any cabins, watch your campfire carefully, and pack out all trash! The cliffs and access are all on public land and legit, but the proximity to private holdings requires sensitivity and best behavior. Be good stewards to this special area and we'll all enjoy it for years to come!
Description
A great new addition to a beautiful crag that's already stacked with classics. Begin with a hard boulder problem (stick clip!) leaving the ground and continue through 5 bolts of fun, unique low-end 5.12 climbing. Rock over and milk the no hands rest. Once rested adequately, pull a few entry moves then begin the nearly perfect ladder of pockets (mostly 2-finger) that builds to the crux below the last bolt. A few moves of easier tech will see you to the chains.
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