Bukit Takun Rock Climbing
Areas in Bukit Takun
Big Hole Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
|GPS:||3.302, 101.634 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Feb 11, 2015|
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DescriptionThis is the best crag in the greater KL vicinity. This hulking monolith just outside the city limits is a geologic anomaly: a mass of limestone on a granitic base. The approach is short, the climbs are classic, and the setting is almost-pristine. Where else in the world can you climb friction slabs into stemmy stalactites and finish on perfect pockets? This is not hyperbole - the locals are scared, which is a good sign it's awesome!
There are multiple distinct areas to the southeastern aspect. The most well-worn trail takes you straight to Battle Field, at the heart of the most recent development. The older trail takes you up to the Granitic Base, where the popular-but-worthy multi-pitch called Pussey Key awaits. To the right of this are the essentially abandoned climbs of Big Hole and Campground areas. These are mostly trad and were put up decades ago, so anchor conditions are questionable. The climbs at the Granitic Base appear to be maintained. As you continue leftwards, there are supposedly climbs in the Galactic Cliff and Lower Slopes area, although these may be hard to find and identify.
Just below this, at the start of Transtakunian Skyway, you will find the most recent development. These are likely the cleanest routes in the area, which should be taken with a grain of salt, as big rocks are still coming down. Cool combination of granite and limestone. As you turn the corner to an area dominated by massive stalactities that nearly touch the ground, you're in the Battle Field. The rock changes character her, becoming more marble-like and overhanging. Another level down is Ana's Garden, with a couple stellar lines. At the bottom of the hill, and back up the other side, is Elysium. The cave here has one unreal 6c that climbs through and out the cave roof, with a few more lines further up the hill.
Be warned! Although this area is phenomenal, it doesn't see the traffic it deserves. This is a double-edged sword - you'll have the place all to yourself, but reserve some mental energy for checking rock quality. We had a very near-miss that still sent my girlfriend to the hospital for eight stitches...
Getting ThereTaxi is probably easiest. A short drive out of town to a golf course with a residential entrance. The gatekeeper should be cool with letting you in as long as you sign in and sign out.
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