Twilight Zone Climbing
|GPS:||53.008, -3.16 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||41 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Russell on May 7, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell|
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DescriptionThe most remote offering of the Clwyd crags, occupying an exposed perch at the highest point of the escarpment. The rock here is well weathered limestone and, thanks to the limited traffic, lacking in polish. However, the tops can be quite loose and the belays are often set quite far back. Overall, the feeling of the area bears more resemblance to a mountain crag than a lowland outcrop.
The area is split into two distinct sections. The Twilight Tower Buttress is high up and receives a fair amount of sunshine but also a lot of wind! The Twilight Gully Walls are set further back in the valley and, while more sheltered, see less sun and consequently seep in the winter, sometimes through to the spring.
All the routes are short, up to a maximum of about 15m, but there is some definite quality that makes the long (ish) approach worth it. There are a couple of bolted lines (notably the left wing of the Gully Walls), but the majority of routes are trad.
Getting ThereApproach from Llangollen along Dinbren Road. Take a right signposted to "World's End", and then a left about 1km further along. Pass a cottage on the left after about 400m then park in one of the pullouts on the right, just before the gate and track on the right, as for the Pinfold Area crags.
Walk along to the gate and follow the track (Offa's Dyke path) Northwards, passing beneath the Pinfold area. Branch right off the main track up the next broad valley/gully, which takes you to the Twilight Gully Walls (about 20mins to this point). For the Twilight Tower Buttress, contour around the hillside, continuing North West. The path takes you directly to the crag.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
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