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Routes in Stockade Wall

Crankenstein T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dave's A-Peelin' T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Once Was Choss But Now Is Found T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stockade Scramble T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Zetastein T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Description

All day sun with easy access off the main trail. Has a tendency to get overgrown with thorns and bramble, but herd paths tend to keep the bramble at bay. Due to it's SE facing aspect and lack of tree cover, this makes for a great winter climbing spot.

Rock is generally good - sharp and gritty Powerlinez rock. The left side has harder climbs with some project while the right side lends itself to easier climbs including some 5.easy ramps to the far right. There is potential for a couple more routes to be squeezed in, especially on the far left side. If you have put up a new route please be sure to post it to the Powerlinez - Beta Shed facebook group for the community. That is where the most active development is happening.

Setting up Top Ropes on this wall can be tricky. Gear placements at the top are usually in cracks at your feet, causing un-needed wear on cams. Tricams work well. You could use a long static and gear on some of the walls behind the Stockade wall, but chances are you'll have to do battle with some thorn bushes to get access to those cracks. There is a large boulder available to wrap a loop around, but as with any large stone, please check it's integrity.

Once you do get a rope set up, these climbs are stellar and deserve more traffic.

Getting There

Head up to main trail until you clear the tree line and see the Tower Wall. The Stockade is the smaller (yet somehow still intimidating looking) wall below and to the right.

Access it by taking a right turn on the herd path underneath the first pylon.

5 Total Climbs

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kenr  
We climbed there recently, seemed like interesting moves on nice rock. Seemed about 40-50 feet high. The top of Stockade (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.14495 W74.16497) is at the same level as the bottom of the Tower Wall, located a short ways east of the east end of the Tower Wall. With some tricky scrambling, it is possible connect between the bottom of the Tower Wall and the west side of the bottom of Stockade Wall. Or there is a use trail up to the cliff bottom from the dirt road to its south.

We tried top-rope climbing on these routes: Once Was Choss But Now Is Found, Dave's A-Peelin' and Crankenstein.

Top anchor for these climbs was not so easy for us. We didn't see enough good features for cams or stoppers in the rock at the top of the cliff. And there were no trees available. So we tried a long static rope to a big rock sitting on a short wall above behind (north from) the cliff -- but that direction of pull was not good for the angle the Stockade cliff faces. We saw another rock farther west precariously perched on the short wall above behind -- and just behind that was another rock not precarious -- so we attached our long static rope to that rock, and it worked well for us.

Getting up to those top anchors required and thoughtful and somewhat strenuous scrambling move (not very exposed), then some easier scrambing (somewhat exposed). Jun 18, 2014
kenr  
As of the Adopt-a-Crag work day in May 2015, the base of the climbs was well trimmed for climbing access. And access to the big rocks on the wall above the Stockade (for possible Top-Rope anchors) was well trimmed. May 30, 2015
Norm Rasmussen
North Jersey
Norm Rasmussen   North Jersey
Ken - you and Sharon did some amazing work on trail day! Thank you so much for your efforts. TR's are now easier to set up on the Stockade wall... Jun 18, 2015

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