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Routes in Stockade Wall

Crankenstein T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dave's A-Peelin' T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Once Was Choss But Now Is Found T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stockade Scramble T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Zetastein T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: TR - Dave Barone, 09/17/08
Page Views: 216 total, 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 15, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Thoughtful crux sequence, and lots of other interesting moves.

Start on the left of the two shallow corners, up through its curve, and on to the top.

warning: The rock around this route and sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

To the leff of the three cracks on the main (left-side) wall are two shallow left-facing inside corners, which start roughly vertical and then curve left -- the left one curves to over to nearly horizontal.

Protection

normal NY style Trad rack, with emphasis on small pieces.

Photos

kenr
  5.11- PG13
kenr  
  5.11- PG13
Start is just a few feet left of the three left-leaning cracks (the cracks of Once Was Choss But Now Is Found and Dave's A-Peelin')

First fifteen feet are pretty tricky to work out, especially finding a less strenuous way to do the crux move. Above that is fun climbing, just not so hard. (If only it were longer).

We worked it on Top-Rope with a long static line to a big rock perched on a wide ledge behind and about fifteen feet higher than the main ledge at the top of the route. Jun 18, 2014